George Bryan Brummell was considered the fashion referee in nineteenth -century England.He imposed the use of knight suit with tie.With the support of the Prince of Wales and an immense inherited fortune, he gave free rein to a vocation that perfected as an art.The nobility was given to their dictates.His fashion reign extended to all of Europe.In the twentieth century his succession was assumed by a woman, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who expanded the borders of his empire to the entire world.

I was just under 30 years old, a squalid body, almost male, and a very personal way to dress.It ran 1916 and the rumble of the Canonsno was the most auspicious accompaniment for that provincial girl with big black eyes to make her triumphal entry in Paris, the arm of Etienne Balzan, the youngest and most rich of the dandis of that time.It was the first of a series of tumultuous romances that never concluded in marriage.When the Duke of Westminster proposed marriage, he rejected him by saying: "There have been several Westminster Ducheses, but Chanel is only only one".

Gabrielle Chanel was born in Saumur, France, on August 19, 1883.She was raised in a nun orphanage.That woman confessed: “During my childhood I only loved being loved.Every day I thought about how to take my life, although, deep down, I was already dead.Only pride saved me ".In a world still overshadowed by World War I, Chanel opened his High Sewing House and launched the “comfortable” fashion by releasing the woman of all artifice, giving him the perfection of simplicity.From the beginning of his career his four favorite colors were: white, black, navy blue (thrown by her) and sand.

He considered the stupid miniskirts and without shame, because they show knees that are rarely perfect: “It is a very pretentious, aggressive and detestable style.I know that a woman can currently appear in front of the Queen of England or in the Vatican, but no one is going to get me out of the head that constitutes an outrage. ”.

He was a supporter of the jewels, but only of the false ones: “Provocative and bad encouragement to walk anywhere with millions tied around the neck or fingers.That of imitations is an industry that has given work to many people and makes ornaments not possessed only by a few privileged.The basic requirement to be able to carry a fantasy is that it seems more authentic than the authentic ones ”.

He loved the perfumes, he used to repeat a phrase by Paul Valéry: "A badly scented woman has no future".He believed it was a terrible gaffe in the arrangement of a woman not to perfume or put on a bad perfume: “Women with bad perfumes are ridiculous;Those who do not use them are simply pretentious, they believe that their natural smell is better ”.

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The head of a black swan

Chanel was always on guard against hairdressers, he thought that even the most talented are nefarious: “They want to sell hair without worrying, neither little nor little, for what is underneath.That is why my models are simply combed, with their own hair.The woman must be natural, otherwise an innoble fetish, without personality, ".

He defended elegance as a form of beauty that must be defended despite the "wind of collective madness" that blew in the world.Its colors, its fabrics, its sobriety, everything refers to elegance;women adopted their suggestions knowing.“From my house they will not be disguised as girls, vagrants, apaches or cosmonauts.They are decent, respectable, feminine;My role is to make them even more worthy, more respectable, more feminine, ”he explained.

He did not deny that fashion should be transformed, but challenged excesses.For example, it was she who introduced the pants in the female costumes, but denied that they were used at all times and in any circumstance: “The boutiques are responsible for that exaggeration.They represent something equivalent to the fifth New York Avenue: vulgarization, uniformity.They are the usual tenders: they do not understand that fashion is an art and must face rigorously, ”he said.

After much insisting, his friend Frederick Brisson led Coco Chanel to a stage.In the play Katherine Hepburn the embodied.The piece was a great success.Coco Chanel was satisfied: "Hepburn, despite being so little elegant, was wonderful".

Even Octogenaria continued to cut her dresses on Mannequins Vivants, on the top floor of her Rue Cambon room, in which she kept a fabulous Bric to Brac by Jades precious, Chinese lacquers, Greek statues and very rare books.Jean Cocteau said that she had the head of a black swan and added: "Without her Picasso and I would never have known some of our successes".