Maria Munoz Rivera

She has been behind the scenes at Jacquemus, and worked at one time for Givenchy, Kenzo and Paco Rabanne. For this reason, Abraham Ortuño decided to stop working for others and create his own firm, Abra, which he now consolidates with a line made of memories, from where all imaginaries start.

The aesthetics of the 2000s mark the creations of Abraham Ortuño (Elche, 1987), at the head of the Abra Paris firm that, after seducing celebrities like Rosalía and becoming an acclaimed name in fashion in France, returns to its origins, Spain, to present its first pret-a-porter collection after solidly consolidating its accessory designs.

I'm an accessories firm, that's why I was excited that the first clothing collection would be personal and in Spain, where I'm from and where my family and friends are. I wanted to transport that essence, explains the man from Alicante to Efe about the expansion of his signature that, after being born in 2016 destined for accessories, now expands his creative frontier.

With an identifiable aesthetic discourse and after years working at the service of big firms such as Jacquemus, Givenchy, Kenzo or Paco Rabanne, Abraham Ortuño decided that it was time to give birth to his own project, to work for his own firm within an industry for which who had been sailing successfully for years.

My collections are an exercise in remembering things that impacted me. From the teddy bears in my sister's car, who is my reference, to her flared pants, it says about her creative universe, which drinks directly from her personal experiences during the last moments of her childhood and adolescence.

It is this reason that prompts the designer to call this first clothing collection With love, in a tribute to the memories of him in twenty-four different outfits. They are silhouettes that remind me of my sister, they are the 'bakala' style, garments of the Spanish youth of twenty years ago so to speak, he explains about this signature identity.

Stitched together by references to pop culture from the 2000s, asymmetrical cut designs, crystals that truffle T-shirts, low-waisted pants or rugby polo shirts make up a proposal in which he also presents some of his already iconic creations: dotted baguette bags with spikes and studs or pointed toe boots with a fine heel.

I always go to my ball, the best thing is to be faithful to your identity and make a creative site influenced by your experiences more than by a trend, the man from Alicante explains his way of understanding and also of making fashion, in which he tries to be guided by an internal creative process, which is not contaminated by external trends.

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It is precisely this key that not only nourishes this first clothing collection but his creations in general, in which he projects a recognizable and different identifying stamp: it is purer to go to your origins and get ideas from there. The sum of what you have lived, is what is really new details about one of the keys of it.

The creator, immersed in large firms in the fashion industry as an accessories designer and consultant, prints good know-how in his creations, with materials that range from 100% cotton to leather that he works in the town of Ubrique (Cádiz), despite maintaining his residence in Paris.

Positioned as one of the voices that resonates strongly in the panorama of the new fashion paradigms, he is clear that genderless clothing is a new bastion, which he naturally incorporates. I like to say that my brand makes women's clothing for everyone. Clothes that adapt to all types of bodies.

A principle that was already present from the origin of his signature of accessories. We have high-heeled shoes up to size 44, explains Ortuño, who weighed up the idea of ​​starting to make clothes after the multiple demands from his clients when he saw the outfits that his models wore together with shoes and bags.

The result is a textile proposal that complements his accessories discourse and that has already transcended to multi-brand points of sale, a vein that is difficult to seduce and that is somewhat scored by Ekseption or Dover Street Market.

The man from Alicante, who began his career in fashion working for David Delfin, sees the future unhurriedly and savoring each step, combining this facet with his work for Loewe under the guidance of JW Anderson and enjoying his work at the service of other brands, that that makes you beat from within fashion. EFE

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