I hope I do not offend anyone with this text, and I hope that not only those who know how to read me and know the tone of my articles understand me. Today's post is reflective and is related to my growing interest in post-feminism. After going to so many fashion-related events, parties, exhibitions and various shows, and having written so much about the who's who in the industry, I think it's time to talk about gaycracy in fashion, a phenomenon also called gaypatriarchy.
I don't want my words to be interpreted as radicalism or an excessive twist, nor as a pot trip, because it is an objective fact: How many men show their collections in Cibeles, to give an example? How many of them are heterosexual, apart from the Galician designers we all know? Can you think of a name other than Adolfo Domínguez, Roberto Verino...? I know that someone's sexual orientation is not relevant at all, but it strikes me that they abound in the sector.
Although aware that this issue that interests me may not be understood, I ask the question out loud. This is not a complaint about a situation, because it does not bother me at all, it has only caught my attention for a long time this reality for which I have never found a convincing explanation. The data is there, although no statistics. Why are there so many gay men linked to the world of fashion in positions of power? Why does the word dressmaker sound better than dressmaker?
The best (in other words, the most praised) designers, make-up artists, hairdressers, exhibition curators, directors of fashion communication agencies, lecturers and fashion critics are always men, with some exceptions [This phenomenon is repeated in other segments such as the gossip]. Is this also about female discrimination that affects the creative part of the profession? Indeed, there are women in fashion in all the sections mentioned above, but they are the least and have less power. They are the majority and have more responsibility when they carry out editorial work in the women's press as journalists or stylists. That is to say, giving voice and importance to the protagonists, who are, I reiterate, in the majority, men and homosexuals, in that order.
Is it true that men dress us and understand us better? And that women only design clothes that we would wear ourselves? Is the competition between us and the supposed viborismo real or is it encouraged by the heteropatriarchal society? Is this a homopatriarchal manifestation?
I have a lesbian friend who is the editor of a magazine who always complains about this situation -the fact that she is a lesbian is anecdotal because she is not a member of any group- and her aim is to work and have the same opportunities as other people regardless of their gender and sexual orientation. Do lesbians suffer double marginalization then? Well, this is another topic. But also an objective fact, because they are not as integrated or accepted in society as gays. Do the math and think about how many recognized gays work on television facing the public and how many lesbians not linked to any group. Is this another form of machismo?
Being a #grownup and #Googling how to tell if a kiwi is ripe #winning #growingup https://t.co/2sVDsHeMul
— Matt Gelman Mon May 22 17:43:18 +0000 2017
In short... Everything points to the fact that, in view of events, the gay lobby in fashion, also called a fag among gays themselves (this is not an offense, please) is a reality. I refuse to label gay men for their supposedly greater sensitivity in these matters, because it seems to me a cliche and to me, if I were gay and a man, I would not like anything to be reduced to that or that only a Gay Pride parade represented me . Indeed, in figures I get many more gay than straight designers. Homosexuals tend to dedicate themselves to liberal professions like this and it would be interesting if it were the object of study... non-discriminatory, of course. But scientific or statistical. It is of interest to me.
I have always thought that where there is homophobia there is machismo: because if we go further, behind all this is the heteropatriarchal and not gaypatriarchal society: those who really pull the strings, those who have the money in the world of fashion are men straight. the Arnault (LVMH) and the Pinault, for example. The Sheikha of Qatar, as the owner of Valentino, Tiffany and other labels, is to the industry as an entrepreneur what Coco Chanel or Elsa Shiaparelli once was to fashion design: a rare bird.
This situation is really beginning to change thanks to Miuccia Prada (who signed Almodóvar in his last campaign), María Grazia Chiuri for Dior, Claire Waigh Keller for GIvenchy, Laura Kim for Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera, Bouchra Jarrar for Lanvin, Natacha Ramsay-Levi for Chloé, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney.
There's still a ways to go, girls.
PS.- For comments, queries, praise and/or criticism you can write to me at beatriz.miranda@elmundo.es, on Facebook and Twitter