SUPREME X TIFFANY & CO.: Breakfast with Quincalla |Vogue Spain Largechevron Menu Close Facebook Instagram Twitter YouTube Pinterest Facebook Twitter Pinterest Gallery Facebook Instagram Twitter YouTube Pinterest Largechevron

By Rafa Rodríguez

On the 11th of month 11, at 11 in the morning, the last trumpet of Apocalypse Streetwear will have sounded.The last one for now, that the street-youth dress is an end of the days long announced but never to conclude.Make deaf ears to your crash on this occasion will not be easy either: it is the next chapter of that book with which the luxury industry wants to do blur and new account of the anti -system clothing, rewriting its story to make it fit into the narrativeof capital.It began in 2017 with the male collection of autumn/winter of that year of Louis Vuitton.He repeated in 2019 with a special edition of Rimowa suitcases. Y hoy vuelve a las andadas involucrando a Tiffany & Co.It is seen that the circular that the CEOs of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) receive every time they have to take care of any of the group's teachings is always the same: if it gives problems, call supreme.

It has been said: the space that inhabits the current fashion business is an invention of the New York Streetwear cult brand.The conception of the product as merchandising, the obsession with collaborations and anticipation marketing carry their seal.If the exclusive tags prêt-à-porter (from Celine to Burberry, passing through Gucci, Balenciaga or Louis Vuitton herself) are these days inroads in the drop, the spaced sale and with dropper of their collections, and signing all kinds ofentering each other is just for her.It is true that he has not invented any of that - his first collaboration, with Nike, dates back to 2002, while the drop and the question of generating expectation around a product are ideas developed by Japanese urban clothing firms in the early nineties-, but with its particular gospel of religion that, since the end of the seventies, uniforms the youth subcultures born in California to the heat of surfing and the skateboard, it seems to have given them a letter of nature.Normal that given the increasingly imperative need to reach these new generations of consumers for which authenticity quotes above any multimillionaire billing, luxury uses supreme as a wildcard of the public.

La jugada que se acaba de marcar Tiffany & Co.It is, in that sense, manual.Property at the end of LVMH since last January, after an intense pull and loosen closed at 13.500 million euros (2.6 percent less the initial purchase offer), the centenary jewelry of the fifth avenue is in the process of reconversion/face wash."This is not your mother's tiffany," says the new motto of his cause, a branding pirouetJean-Michel Basquiat's Equals Pi Table.The controversy then focused on the painting, dated in 1982 and never exposed, which has as its peculiarity a color background very similar to the famous Tiffany blue, that turquoise tone that color the firm's wrappings: what a daring, use the work thusof a racialized and anti -capitalist artist.Now it is permanently exhibited in the venerable location of jewelry in Alto Manhattan.Behind the sound marketing maneuver.The young man - still does not have the 30 - already realized his commercial eye as president of Rimowa, a talent that has earned him the jump to the brand new jewel of the Crown of the Paternal Empire as Executive Director.That has returned to pull supreme to pass the next level of modernity/authenticity cannot miss anyone.Nor that James Jebbia, founder and ideologist of the saint and aesthetic sign of the urban counterculture, has accessed.

Known as La Chanel del Streetwear, Supreme actually handles the same exclusivity codes as luxury from its origins.The limited product, the iron devotion for what it represents and the fact that those who want it to have it will always be more.The only thing that distinguished it were its ethical principles, a system of values cemented in integrity, individuality and independence.Until the entrance as an equitable partner of the American Risk Capital multinational The Carlyle Group, which acquired 50 percent of the shares by half a million dollars in 2017, changed the brand's perception."There is nothing underground, true, but now it is viral, like a thug meme that infects status, semiotics and social decorum with a given aesthetics, postmodern irony, insolent disobedience and acute subterfuges wherever it appears where it appears.A subcultural failure in the mainstream, "justified the critic and art commissioner Carlo McCormick a couple of years ago, when the brand turned 25. La colaboración con Tiffany & Co.It would be necessary to understand it, then, as a transgression, another subversive and invasive, sudden impact trick. El marco elegido además para el debut de esta cápsula tampoco ofrece pérdida: la línea Return to Tiffany, una colección de llaveros y placas de identificación lanzada en 1966, originalmente chapados en oro de 14 quilates y grabados con la inscripción ‘Por favor, devolver a Tiffany & Co.New York ’to help in case of loss.Popular for the affordable of their prices (9 and 11 dollars, the oval and heart -shaped plates cost, the line has been adding bracelets, chains and bracelets, in silver sterling version from the end of the nineties.

La colaboración Supreme x Tiffany & Co.It abounds, precisely, in the most accessible law of law - metal, by the way, introduced for fashion by Elsa Peretti in the legendary pieces he signed during his contractual relationship with the jewel house -, with the greatest urban aftero.There is no lack of earrings and the pendant with the heart -shaped sheet, the starry link bracelet and the keychain (also in a knife version).Like Pièce de Résensence, the oval sheet, now presented in cultivated pearl collar version.All recorded with the relevant legend 'Ple.The proverbial white skater t -shirt completes the play with another wink: the background of the expen.

In any case, that nobody expects skaters hordes in sweatshirt and culiced pants breakfast expectation in front of the shop windows of the most literary and cinematographic jewelry stores.That would be beautiful to see, of course;But again it is supreme that has the advertising pan by the mango, so the collection is going to be dispatched according to its rules: in Drop format and through the website of the brand itself or in that of its only point of saleAuthorized foreign, Dover Street Market (the very exclusive chain of stores-concept that operates Comme des Garçons).Before, of course, you had to register online to get purchase shift, randomly awarded: inscriptions opened last Tuesday 9, also at 11 in the morning, and before finishing the day they were already overwhelmed.That many of the collected pieces will begin to appear this afternoon in the inevitable digital resale channel (from stockx to eBay), crazy price, nobody doubts.

Tell me who you want to be this season and I will tell you what are the autumn-winter jewels 2021/2022 perfect for you

By María JoséPérez Méndez