The so-called curvy revolution is already a reality. The inclusion of non-normative bodies in all parts of the fashion process, above and below the catwalk, in front of and behind the spotlights, is a step towards change: a step still slow and timid, but sure.

However, despite the active fight against fatphobia and the consolidation of this social change, many fashion brands are trying to capitalize on the body positive movement. In other words, they want to take advantage of the benefits of being an "inclusive brand" without making significant changes, for example, in their size range. What is known in sustainability as green washing (the use of the "sustainable" label without complying with the regulations that its use entails) is spreading to body diversity, coining a new term: fat washing.

But these image-washing strategies sometimes go beyond merely symbolic commitments. Today the consumer has the power, and each individual has the ability to demand these real changes, either through social networks (such as the famous hashtag #MakeMySize promoted by the activist Kate Sturino) or with their purchase decision. That is to say: supporting and betting on those firms with a true commitment to inclusion, not only at the marketing level.

Brands with large sizes that lead the change

"Diversity isn't just about ethnicity, it's also about gender and body type. In fashion, everyone's included!" said Steven Kolb, president of the CFDA, ahead of the show season. And it is that the inclusion of diverse bodies has already begun to be seen on the catwalk. Such has been the case of Michael Kors, which was one of the first firms to include models of various sizes in its parades. In addition to totems of body diversity, such as Ashley Graham or Candice Huffine, new faces such as Paloma Elsseser are making history: this spring, without going any further back, she added two new milestones in the profession, becoming the first of her stature, the 46, in parading for the veterans Lanvin and Fendi.

For example, New York Fashion Week alone has broken a record: 68 "plus-size" models in 19 shows, according to The Fashion Report. Leading the way, the Tommy Hilfiger × Zendaya show brought together 12 plus-size models (including 10 black women), including "body activism" stars: Ashley Graham (size 46), Candice Huffine (size 44) and Precious Lee. (size 46). And it was Rihanna who signed the knockout blow with her Savage x Fenty Show, which has managed to unseat the moribund lingerie brand Victoria's Secret, with its tagline "celebrating boldness, confidence and inclusion." Together with the thin Hadid sisters we could see the transgender actress Laverne Cox from the series Orange is the New Black or the top Paloma Elsesser.

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The celebration of all types of bodies has also been highlighted in the parades of Prabal Gurung, Michael Kors or Kate Spade, and has even infiltrated Paris through the brands Koché, Alexander McQueen, Mugler... and yes, also Chanel . The legendary French maison included non-normative models for the first time in its history, with Jill Kortleve at the helm. The 25-year-old, size 42 with a mix of Dutch, Surinamese, Indonesian and Indian origins, a few tattoos and a well-cut bob, tells her Instagram followers: "If you can't love yourself, how can you love yourself?" Can you love someone else?

In Spain, and bringing fashion down to the street, although Zara has included (in very few garments) the XXL size range and has included the model Paloma Elsesser as the star of its catalog, the Inditex giant has a serious problem with their carvings. And it is that the XXL of Zara coincides with a size 44 of a store like H&M, much more inclusive in its range of sizes (they usually reach up to 46 in all its garments), although lately its strategy has changed to offer greater diversity online than in a physical store.

For its part, Mango led this movement by creating the Violeta by Mango line more than a decade ago. Today, there are fewer corners and exclusive stores, because the Catalan firm is including a greater diversity of sizes

Another of the great champions of change is &Other Stories. The brand's bathroom campaign last year left aside Photoshop and the 90-60-90 measurements to represent a good part of its clients through models that did not hide cellulite or love handles. Real women who flee from filters and the "perfection" imposed by the networks, and whose example has been followed by many other firms, such as Etam: the French brand chooses women of all sizes to show their bikinis and swimsuits, leaving, once again , clear its break with aesthetic stereotypes.

And while it is true that these great giants of fashion are gradually joining the change, women with non-normative bodies are not only looking for a multiplication of the centimeters of fabric, but a pattern adapted to the shape of their bodies. For this, inclusive firms such as Asos, Shein (although in terms of sustainability it is very unreliable), Vero Moda, Soncy, Pink Clove or Universal Standard are still essential. And for those who can afford it (and of course, then not entirely inclusive) there are firms like Good American, from the Kardashian clan, or Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Kane or Diane von Furstenberg, who have increased their sizes to tend towards a clientele with larger bodies.

The change cannot be reduced only to campaigns, images or marketing strategies, but also has to happen behind the scenes: from directors and agents to representatives and publicists. An increase in physical diversity can lead to a radical change in the type of products that are generated, conceived, manufactured and sold. Change is coming slowly, and people with power are coming to the fore. The movement, yes, needs more support and responsibility throughout the ecosystem if our goal is to reach a scenario in which all bodies receive the same treatment.

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