No cabe duda. Fendi es una de las firmas que más aceptación tiene entre la gente joven, sobre todo poque es la favorita de estrellas de la música y el cine. Arrasa entre las celebridades orientales pero también la adoran iconos de moda, como Rihanna y Rosalía, y artistas como John Legend, Cynthia Erivo, Amal Clooney, Selena Gómez, Miley Cyrus o Nicki Minaj, que incluso ha colaborado con ellos para hacer una colección cápsula. La legión de fans de la casa italiana crece cada día, más ahora que cuenta con una línea de costura y ya ha empezado a conquistar las alfombras rojas. El vestido transparente que Gwyneth Paltrow llevó a los Globos de Oro ha sido todo un éxito. Ahora refuerza la divisa masculina y lo hace con una colección que definen como "una nueva normalidad donde las prendas tradicionales no siempre son lo que parecen". Silvia Venturini, su directora creativa, propone un divertido rompecabezas de contrastes jugando con las formas, texturas y colores.

Venturini says that he has created the garments as if they were "portfolios to carry the body", taking out elements that are normally in the lining.We see "Multibolsillo inserts" and tissue strips to carry things as disparate as a tie.Double pattern senses abound, such as jacket sleeves and hems that are transformed with zippers and alternate colors, or straight pants that bind to a skirt.He is clear that minimalism is not instagram meat and that is why it focuses on striking pieces, both for the tissue or color and by the pattern.A simple zipper offers two options;That is, two looks and two photos to upload to social networks.

His famous logo went from being a mere differential and aspirational element to be a print desired by influencers.Venturini now reinvents it as if it were a wild print, as a second skin now made with abstractions of motifs, both monochromatic and multicolored, and even with intarsias.This collection highlights the fantastic collaboration with the Japanese firm Anrealage, which translates into a selection of photocromatic outer clothing, with light -sensitive pieces that change their appearance.Was this the future?It looks like it is.

Muchos aspectos están cambiando. Para empezar los modelos a seguir. En los desfiles de la Semana de la Moda de Milán se rinde culto al hombre trabajador: Dolce&Gabbana sacó a su pasarela a modelos convertidos en carpinteros, jardineros y pintores. La idea es poner en valor a esos individuos anónimos que son héroes cada día para sus parejas, familias y amigos.

The garments to combat the cold mark the Prada collection.Coats, braids and tabardos reinvent themselves with new technical fabrics without losing their essence and that appetizing retro air.It is not the only garment traveling from the past to try to conquer the future.The horrendas chorreras of the seventies shirts are now added to the shirts, which raise their style status.We see Jaspeado Point, another nostalgic element, and others with geometric prints that connect with the history of the Italian house.The logo is deconstructed and its strokes decorate pockets and flaps.

The devil's closet not only has Prada garments.Men's collections are getting more and more weight and according to Euromonitor International, “the billing of male fashion increased 4.5% in 2019, while women's fashion rose 4.3%, and luxury clothing for men for mengrew 3.4%.Do you buy less or buy better?Garments are bought in the closet for two different reasons: they are special and are of better quality.

"The only thing that calms me, relaxes and puts me in a good mood is to give value to work and the things that are durable."It is the message of Miuccia Prada, especially aimed at those young people who buy compulsively use and throw.Durability is today a declaration of intentions and a political weapon, says the designer, in "a new era in which the word sustainability has entered fully into the luxury industry."

For luxurious, Ermenegildo Zegna and Salvatore Ferragamo collections.Zegna bets on a rich and modern fabric flag to build a collection of revised classics.Nothing seems new and everything seems new.Especially the costumes.Alessandro Sartori, its creative director, highlights that sensuality that is one of the signs of the house.There is no stiffness in the garments because an elegantly relaxed and urban aesthetic is embraced, and a palette of quiet colors that live in perfect harmony.A work that stands out for maintaining an attractive balance between tradition and modernity.

A good example is the vest.It is undoubtedly one of the most viewed pieces in the parades and promises to be the must of the autumn and winter season from 2020 to 2021. But you have to forget the classic model designed to carry in a suit.The new models are made with technical fabrics and adopt a more sporty, urban style and even borrow codes of work uniforms.

The Italian house has that 50% of the fabrics they have used to make this collection are recycled.And to highlight it, a work by Anna Patterson made with strips of leftover tissues from other collections: another, and necessary, called attention to sustainability was installed on the catwalk.The same has done Giorgio Armani, although more evident, writing about the garments such as: ‘I say yes to recycling’.Armani, one of the veterans of international fashion, remains at the foot of the cannon, reinventing each season but without losing its essence.Whether in brightness or mate, Armani is always.

More interesting has been the neomimalist proposal of Salvatore Ferragamo.The dark tones, especially blue and brown, tissue a very winter collection that challenges the whims of climate change.His creative directors, Guillaume Meilland and Paul Andrew, have proposed to "decode men's clothes" and do so from six archetypes: entrepreneur, motorist, pilot, sailor, soldier and surfer.The idea is to wear different lifestyles with the same fashion style, recovering timeless iconic codes but passing them through the aesthetic sieve of the 21st century.

Six sexist stereotypes that serve to build the new dimension, and the new masculinity, of the 2020 man. "When I go out with millennials of my team I see that they dress with a mixture of these archetypes, combining a neoprene pants surfer style with a jacketOf more formal and tight executive or a fisherman sweater, "says Paul Andrew."Some of them are very masculine and others are more comfortable with their femininity. It is best to mix everything because a man of today is not obliged to assume a single role. And it is that freedom that we want to explore in this collection!"

The return of Salvatore Ferragamo is a sign that the Italian catwalk works to recover its power and influence and especially its original dimension.It is not the only case since Gucci and Nº21 also leave the mixed parades and are incorporated into the official calendar that lengthens in five days and welcomes 77 collections, 26 of them presented in a parade format.