Miuccia Prada catwalks reinterprets the uniform ‘back to the office’ and the classic closet fund with typical silhouettes of the 2000s
By Marina Valera
"I can probably make a better miu miu.Prada is always more formal.And the Prada Foundation is important.But with Miu Miu I can sneak more inside, I can be more with the people, "I confessed a few hours ago Miuccia Prada to Tim Blanks in an interview for Business of Fashion about the arrival of Raf Simons to the creative direction of the firm thatHears his last name.With the weight of meltion distributed, the designer feels that now is the time to give more pamper if it fits the smallest and most frightening sister.In addition, as explained to Blanks in a very personal conversation, the last 5 years have not been easy: in addition to having lost four of their best friends, fear and anxiety had taken over it.Now, finally, it seems to have managed to move that feeling and, therefore, have recovered the lost inspiration (if ever left).
Miu Miu Spring-Summer 2022 collection seems the perfect fusion of two opposing trends that are the order of the day: the PREPPY and the 2000s.All the garments of the classical closet - Chinese, gabardinas, bermudas, moccasins ... - yes, but with their patterns reinterpreted under the prism of the revealing and recognizable typical silhouettes of the 2000s of the years of the 2000s are present.A contradiction in itself starring low -shooting tweezers (or converted into hot pants) and cropped sweaters with shirts underneath that show the abdomen and part of the underwear.A kind of back to the office costumes, as Vanessa Friedman pointed out, but with a clear two -milea essence.
"This summer, I wanted to buy something a bit vulgar," myuccia told Tim Blanks about the huge golden chip of Van Cleef and Arpel of the 70s that the designer wore during the interview during the interview.Is it a feeling that has wanted to move to your collection?Use the correction language and do it trizas?Express your feelings around the return to "old normality"?As if someone arrived on his first day back to the post-pandemic office and, at a start of fury, his uniform had passed through a paper crusher.As (and already stop) if the 2002 Christina Aguilera had taken a pair of scissors to redo, in its image and likeness, the life uniform of a lifetime.
For this collection of Miu Miu spring-summer 2022, Miuccia Prada has collaborated with the multimedia artist of Moroccan origin Meriem Bennani.It is the first time that the designer does it in these terms, as revealed to the famous BOF journalist."I never liked the idea because, in the end, it was only to use us among us, to sell more," he explained about his previous reluctance.However, now this association faces in another way, letting it be the voice of this artist who speaks completely for her.The videos with which the firm announced its parade, as well as the film projected before, during and then through the binocular screens installed inside the Palais d'Iena, they are the work of theirs.
After 18 months producing only Fashion Films to present his collections - a task he has enjoyed for being more difficult and hard but also more enriching - Miuccia did not want to leave “orphan” to that audience making a parade to use to use.Precisely confinement has had a lot to do with that change in attitude towards new technologies."For me, it was something like revolutionary.It is the first time I really faced the importance they had, "he explains to Blanks.The relevance of them was decisive in its change of mindset."Relevance comes when you bring your work reality," says Prada when you ask how you can make your work also more relevant.
This concern has accompanied Prada since he was a militant of the Communist Party in the 70s."That all my friends were politicians and intellectuals while I was in fashion implied that it was very difficult for me," he recalls.Precisely because of that, fashion has always represented an internal conflict for it.One that has been solving in the best possible way: using fashion as the powerful speaker that is and intellectualizing the conversation.In addition to giving voice to the artist Meriem Bennani in this spring-summer 2022 collection of Miu Miu-in the last 10 years the Women's initiative such of the brand has commissioned 20 short films to women directors-the Prada Foundation is hosting a cycle onNeuroscience.“I want to find a way to introduce more intelligence in my work because fashion is a very strong instrument.So I want to use it more.I want to try to give more tools - this will sound generic - to be more useful ".
Subscribe to our Newsletter to receive all the news in fashion, beauty and lifestyle.
By María JoséPérez Méndez
Ver fotos