Disseny Museu

El Disseny Museu de Barcelona presenta los sombreros más bellos del mago vasco de la moda en una muestra que abre el día 16 y es de 'chapeau!'.A Entrebambalinas to see the latest preparations

Felip Vivanco / Xavi Cervera (photos)

Barcelona

A call.“Safety, can you open the reservation?Thank you".And the heavy and armored a Ashes gray metal door is giving way to a leafy paradise of beauty and history.German baroque ceramics.14th century tiles.Floods and palanquins of the 18th century.Arcones, furniture.

A shiny impala mountain, as just taken from the factory, wanting to escape and burn wheel.Shoes with embedded jewelry, dressed in angry legend.A splendor display in the Museum of the Disseny of Barcelona where 78 are stored.000 pieces that tell another creative, artistic and artisan history of the city.

The table with wheels carried.5, ligatures and hats.The wheel crank and a corridor appears with drawers on the side and side.Inside a booty: turbans, pamelas, canotiers, bobs, breton, co -foundations, caps: velvet, straw, popelín, redecilla;Rosas, red, green;simple and extravagant;No ornaments or rhinestones.

They are some of the pieces, very delicate and fragile, which will be part of the exhibition that opens next day 16 and that makes one of the least known, exhibited and studied facets of the 'Picasso de la Fashion', that is, that is,from Cristóbal Balenciaga.In the workshop number 3, between mannequins and thimbles and boxes that expect to be open, details are finalized, they place bonds and adjust mannequins.

“Nieva en la ciudad, pero lleváis la primavera en la cabeza. Esta es la verdadera evasión. Estamos locos por ir a buscarla lejos cuando, en realidad, cada parisina la lleva en su sombrero". Voyage autour d’un chapeau (1952) James de Coquet

“El sombrero es lo más importante". La señora dalloway (1925) Virginia Woolf

"Un sombrero es un símbolo positivo. Hace vibrar a quienes lo observan y despierta el irrefrenable deseo de poseerlo.Un gran sombrero existe más allá de su propio tiempo". Philip Treacy, sombrerero de alta costura

The sample project began to spin many months ago when the two sample commissioners, Sílvia Ventosa and Igor Uria, of the Balenciaga de Getaria museum (Gipúzkoa), exchanged information about their respective (and impressive) hats collections with their signature.

Like the great dressmakes of the twenties, thirty -forty (Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Lanvin ...), Balenciagaente how to dress the woman freeing her from the corsets (imaginary and physical) and respecting her body without giving upElegance and without ruling out tight dresses, especially those at night, as Magazine's visit Sílvia recalls.

Balenciaga is a designer that did everything: he designed, he did patterns, cut and sew.He is the only 'couturier' in the strict sense of the word, "said Coco Chanel

Balenciaga is one of the few modist who did everything and well, not only designed, but dominated the patronage, cut and sew.You cannot ignore, even if it is well -known, the sentence of Coco Chanel on the Basque designer: "It is the only‘ couturier ’that exists in the strict sense of the word".

Part of the funds that will be exhibited in the museum do not speak only of the talent and visionary power of a sijno modistom also of the main petites, that is, of all the anonymous seamstresses that made them in the workshops and shops that Balenciaga had in SanSebastián, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona...

The hats also discover the passion of some clients from Balenciaga, who only dressed in their garments, such as Ana María Torres de Gili, wife of editor Gustavo Gili, who donated 200 hats and sets to the city.

"Balenciaga was a perfectionist- says Sílvia Ventosa- that part of the tradition, which can use very popular materials such as cotton, linen or straw and others very exclusive such as monkey hair or ostrich feathers".The exhibition assembly team has spent the last months studying, restoring, recalling.

Beatriz Urbano carefully fix an internal redecilla with needle and thimble.Montserrat Xirau checks the status of a red turban under the magnifying glass."One of the most complicated things is how every hat is placed.Everyone has their language and position: on the forehead, back, tilted, pigeoned like a beret...".

“Cada pieza es diferente, con su particular complejidad –agrega Urbano-, a cada sombrero hay que mirarlo con ojos diferentes".The work of Xirau and Urbano acquires visibility during the visit.Many times it is not even if your work is as decisive as silent.

Each piece is different, with its particular complexity, to each hat you have to look at it with different eyes

“Son ellas las que tienen la última palabra sobre si una pieza se exhibe o no", apunta la comisaria Sílvia Ventosa.In the workshop, chaired by a green layer of the designer that will be exhibited, luxury crafts are interwoven with the forefront of fashion that is not art or design, which draws an intermediate, sinuous and timeless path, in which modernityposes on each hat.

Five models to discover (se)

Grosse Touch Coc Rouge, 1963

Model 30, August 1963.Casquet: Gallo feathers covered with tulle veil, on Esparterina structure

Breton hat, 1948

Breton hat, 1948: satin, tulle and feathers on hair felt, which was sold in the EISA store in Madrid

Cloche Bombée Satin Abeille, 1961

Model 57, February 1961 braided vegetable leaf hat label, madrid

Pamela, 1945-1948

Pamela, braided cellophane and silk faja label "eisa", madrid

Casquete, 1955

Cap, August 1955 (Model 6) cotton organza on scatter "eisa" label,

At two o'clock in the afternoon the security gate is closed again.Goodbye Montesa Impala, Goodbye Baroque Porcelain, Goodbye Metro poster of Madrid that honors Paco de Lucía Line 9.Some pieces are already placed on paper heads that have no features, eyes, no nose although in the imagination the faces of the women who took them are furtively: Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner or Jackie Kennedy.

The show the elegance of the hat can be seen from June 17 to October 31 at the Disseny Museu in Barcelona.In the spring of 2022 it will be exhibited in the Christopher Balenciaga Museoa in Getaria (Gipuzkoa).

Dresses, hats, shoes, jewelry and a perfume cloud: wearing coconut, undressing Chanel

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