The Franco-Filipino Anthony Alvarez, creator of Bluemarble, was in charge of opening the face-to-face catwalk of the Paris Men's Fashion Week, which began with the presentation of the autumn-winter 2022 collections.

In an empty hangar near the Bastille, with masks and negative coronavirus certificates, the guests occupied the room in the pandemic environment that has marked the last two years of fashion, in the midst of a revolution in the concept of presentations.

Bluemarble was the first of the 17 brands that will walk the catwalk physically between now and Sunday, while a large majority continue to discover the digital tools with which to show their new designs to their potential public, as well as the press and buyers.

Alvarez filled the runway with color in loose tailored coats in shades of teal and green, purple velvet capes, ruffled and studded shirts, and hooded leopard-print trench coats.

Rastafarian style

In a somewhat Rastafarian style, the models wore wool hats with ear flaps that reached the ankles and sneakers decorated with colored fur and made from the so-called "deadstock", from old garments that have not been sold.

"The goal of this collection is to offer an escape throughout the Philippines. I wanted to put all my culture, Filipino and also French, in it, reinterpreting pieces from the marine universe, and a touch of the American entertainment world," Alvarez said backstage at statements to EFE.

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He introduced wool, nylon, psychedelic motifs and hand embroidery, with a series of buttons drawing patterns on colored jackets and shirts.

The trousers, in vibrant colors, were worn wide, almost flared, and with a curious mid-calf cut that divided the garment into two: denim on top and hand-knitted on the bottom.

The wide shapes were also seen in the Japanese firm Taakk, which opted for a video revealed on the platform of the Haute Couture and Fashion Federation, organizer of the event, where it showed its flared pants, combined with tight turtleneck sweaters and jackets of velvet.

The seventies spirit was seen in the printed silk shirts, pajama type, with colors that are diluted in the garment, as well as sports jackets and faded trench coats by the Japanese Tayuka Morikawa, who created this brand in 2014 after years working together with Issey Miyake .

seventies spirit

A bit "pop" was also the collaboration announced at the EGONlab. show, which made its official entry into the Paris Fashion Week calendar.

The emerging French firm worn by Florentin Clémarec and Kévin Nompeix, whose name is a tribute to the Austrian painter Egon Schiele, has launched a collection of clogs together with the "Crocs" brand in fluorescent colors and with colored stones, usually decorating this comfortable shoe. used in certain work uniforms but a few years ago it became a trend.

Aside from the collaboration, EGONlab., which also paraded in person in Paris, at the Oratorio del Louvre Protestant temple, opted for a university style with sports jackets over shirts with ties and, again, flared pants, showing that this garment is stepping strong for the next season.