The man had to dress vest and pants collected in the knee, cover the head with a wig, the neck surround himself with his corresponding handkerchief and protect himself from the cold with the mandatory layer.This clothing code was instituted by King Carlos II of England in the seventeenth century as a compendium of the customs that prevailed in the court of Versailles.Although it seems strange, said canon is the remote antecedent of the male suit that would crystallize two centuries later and still survive.
The City of London popularized him and extended him all over the world.But that practical standard continues to evolve.Gonzalo López Larrainzar and Bere Casillas, two teachers of the Spanish tailoring, reveal their latest transformations, consistent with issues such as climate change or some naturalness in forms.
The combination of jacket and pants is not alien to fashion.Although classic tissues, the Fil-A-Fil, the diplomatic line or the eye of partridge continue to predominate, the consistency has varied."Before they were thicker," explains López Larrainzar, the last exponent of a family saga that, among others, tells King Felipe VI as a client."Perhaps due to the use of heating or climate change, there are no longer winter and summer garments, but entertainment costumes are used all year."
The chromatic monopoly is also questioned.The blue, Gray Marengo and Beis, dominant colors, now contrast with the use of other ranges in linings, for example, or the vests.But the greatest alteration comes from the use of t -shirts or t -shirts instead of the traditional shirt."That is the influence of 'corruption in Miami' and the truth is that I think it can only look good in Miami," he confesses."Another thing is a blazer with a pretty pole."
The footwear also must go in line with the suit."There is no use of moccasins," she warns and opts for laces shoes, buckles or tassels."Sometimes, we forget that the choice of accessory elements is very important."
No scarves
Now, some are in Franco Declive."I haven't seen scarves for a long time, and that has to do with the gradual disappearance of the tie," he says.Yes, the star complement goes back."I have very important buyers that come without them, I also use it less and, practically, young people have stopped using it."
The Sastrería Universe has found a contemporary diffuser in Granada Ber Casillas.Through YouTube, he spreads his concept 'elegance 2.0', an approach to male fashion for all audiences.The video in which he explains how to make the tie -up knot in less than a minute has already gathered 2.6 million visits, for example.The 'celebrities' wear their jackets and custom pants."The process, structure and use have changed flatly."
The 'Slim Fit' is imposed."The garments are more tight, even in the most classic cuts, the American have lost one to three centimeters and the length of the pants has been reduced so that the shoe only rubs."
And the climatic crisis, what effect has it had?The influence, in this field, has resulted in the predilection for natural and thin fibers, to which licras are added to gain elasticity.
The tailoring bonanza was interrupted by the pandemic and, currently, we are at a juncture in which it has lost prominence, according to this professional.«The 'Casual Business' is generalized, the combination of jacket and Chinese in the business world».
Rustic fabrics
The tartan wins whole in this aesthetic change, as well as the large picture jacket with cerillero or smooth pocket with patch pocket.The distinction can be gained with the use of flaps in the vests, especially recommended for ceremonies and not so much for everyday life."In this section, I lean on rustic tissues, with some roughness," he says.
The tailoring, in his opinion, enjoys good perspectives in the medium term."The circumstances in which we live forces the disappearance of the 'Fast Fashion' so pernicious, and to bet on products of more price, but also of higher quality and durability," he says.In addition, these garments can accommodate the transformation of taste."They can adapt to changes in trends and, if tending towards a greater volume, they would easily adapt because they have an extra fabric, of what the industrial clothing lacks."
Polvo de diamante para darle un toque al conjunto
Laureus sport awards are a good occasion to discover the most bizarre trends in male fashion."But in the street there are no radical changes if you are not a footballer or you have bizarre tastes," warns the Madrid tailor Gonzalo López Larrainzar.Who has a fantasy sample in which it is possible to find costumes dotted with diamond powder or made with 18 carat gold thread, although they are exceptions.In any case, he has assumed strange projects."On one occasion, I prepared a set to attend a party with the flag of the stamped European Union."The weddings are, he says, another ideal occasion to see "terrifying combinations."And now it is a trend in nuptial events Shoes without socks."You can do it if you go 'casual', but in a ceremony of this type it does not seem correct, nor in the professional level," says Bere Casillas.
