Madrid – Siguiendo con los desfiles más destacados que están teniendo lugar bajo el paraguas de esta presente edición de la Semana de la moda Masculina de París, ayer llegaba la hora de Louis Vuitton. Desde donde daban a conocer su propuesta de moda hombre para la próxima temporada Primavera/Verano de 2022, valiéndose de una presentación digital en la que se combinaban los formatos de desfile y de fashion film. Una suerte de película bajo el nombre de “Amen Break”, que podía seguirse a través de los distintas canales oficiales de la firma y de la plataforma oficial desarrollada por la Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode francesa, entidad responsable por velar por la vitalidad y la visibilidad de la moda francesa, así como encargada de la organización de las Semanas de la Moda y de la Alta Costura de París.

Designed by the American creative Virgil Ulh, creative director of the Louis Vuitton male line since last March 2018, at which time he entered to occupy the position until then in charge of the British designer Kim Jones - which for his part jumped to the Creative direction of Dior Homme - with this new proposal the French house, and above it the American designer, they enter to highlight the current social and cultural context in which we are now. A collection that therefore comes to underline issues as hot as already accepted as the new pillars that will serve for the construction of the moral, social and political models of the new generations. A speech that we will find armed about values ​​such as inclusion, gender diversity and everything linked to the processes of recontextualization of archetypes and subcultures and social communities to which we have been attending throughout the last years, with which Some way out comes to point out the entire range of problems that have already been overcome, and on which it will now be built the reflections that must be living by our new stage at a society level.

"Decision, gender, diversity", "that has already ceased to be hot issues", to become something that "has already been established," explained the designer himself on the occasion of the presentation of the collection throughout some some Declarations collected by media such as WWD. "Now I am designing a male clothes that shows how liberating it can become," highlighting its decision to include pieces of pieces such as skirts, but that do not come here to talk to us about gender issues, but From that necessary freedom in this 2021. "The following in fashion is not within fashion," he tried to synthesize the creative, "he is in the people, he is in the social environment, he is in the streets, he is in the socio -political ” Niches on which it seems determined to dive in search of the inspiration of their next collections, thus following those social movements such as the Black Lives Matter or in favor of the rights of the trans group that dominated the social agenda throughout this last year.

From skirts to a new collaboration with Nike

In what from the fashion house itself they would not have doubted to describe as a chess game, alluding to both the iconic pattern of the firm and the cover of the album “Liquid Swords” of rapper Gza, next to Lupe Fiasco, Saul Williams, Shabaka Hutchings or the actor of the miserable ones, Issa Perica, present at the Fashion Film of presentation of the collection, the fashion firm poses a symbolic battle between the most formal styles, inheritance of the house, and the new urban models.A combination of whose sum we would obtain that unmistakable seal of the Obloh style, which is shown here as a kind of yin-yang in which the one cannot exist without the other, compromising with his lack the integrity of that renewed air that the AmericanHe has known how to print on Vuitton's collections.

"I do not choose between one or the other," says Obloh, "my signature are both," and hence that Yin-Yang is shown as a "symbol that fits perfectly with my style." A confrontation therefore between tailoring and sportswear, of which no winner is winning, and that we will find materialized through risky sets of jackets and tracksuit pants, skirts, sweatshirts, pieces and Japanese inspirational suits cut as if of garments of garments of Sastrería were, and a wide range of accessories, among which we find backpacks, hats, hats and a wide variety of hoods. Highlighting from among them one of the surprises that the firm had maintained a good Its Air Force Sneakers model 1. Design that has not yet been launched for sale, and that for now from any of both companies has entered to detail whether it is a unique piece or part of a much more complete capsule.

"As a recurring motive of the collection," they highlight from Louis Vuitton, the aesthetics of the Rave culture, through that proliferation of elements such as those crayles that are located as key garments of the collection, it comes to serve as an example of those those Intercultural collection elements "found at the base of many of the subcultures of which current fashion drinks." Thus, a piece as iconic as those tracksuits "loaded with preconceived ideas" of a social nature, pass "juxtaposed with custom costumes", as a result of an exercise with which "virgil operates active and at the same time neutralizes all those unconscious prejudices connected to both ends of these basic elements ”of current fashion. A game of which the American creative is undoubtedly winning, just as it does after the incorporation of these skirts into the collection, with which he enters to address a reformulation of gender archetypes linked to certain garments, with the mere Objective, in short, to light "a purely human dress" and exempt from any prejudice, whether they are economic, racial or gender nature.

A story inspired by the life of rapper Lupe Fiasco

Apart from these meanings and interpretations with the scope of fashion and design, the short “Amek” is shown as an abstract interpretation of the life of the American rapper Lupe Fiasco.Whose father managed to generate an important impact among young generations in southern Chicago during the decade of the 70s and 80s, presenting martial arts as an alternative to those youth bands that crowded the suburbs of the city during those decades.

Assembling the story of Fiasco, "Amek Break" shows us a father and a child united by a loss, who try to cross through a dream world with the sole purpose of being able to deliver a message to the other side.A journey with which Obloh, using that influence that Fiasco's father ended up exercising in his community, tries to explore everything and when he is linked to that same concept of "transmission": from the act alone, to the wayin which this action can end up generating waves that are transmitted from generation to generation over the years, impacting in its path in thousands and thousands of people.