Men's fashion has undergone an evolution worthy of analysis. Now, at a time when gender expression transcends the catwalk, The Men's Fashion Book compiles from A to Z the key figures in the world of men's fashion over the past 200 years.
The book brings together 126 designers, 96 brands, 35 photographers, 20 shoe designers, 18 accessories designers, 21 tailors, 15 publications, 13 models, 13 stylists and 7 illustrators, as well as art directors, writers, editors, milliners and textile designers.
Ed. Phaidon's The Men's Fashion Book compiles in a generous list people who have inspired styles, not only well-known designers, but also representatives of all social spheres from the musician David Bowie to the footballer David Beckham, Leonardo DiCaprio or the very young Timothy Chalamet.
Memorable, significant images of its protagonists and the evolution of men's fashion, which Jacob Gallagher, director of The Wall Street Journal's Off Duty magazine, prefaces and defines as "an eternal piece of mud" that everyone contributes to model.
Legends such as Paul Smith or Giorgo Armani, or today's great innovators such as Ozwald Boateng, Alessandro Michele or Kim Jones, as well as groundbreaking brands such as Bode, Sacai and Supreme, contribute to building a new, different and also timeless image of men.
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The book is an easy-to-read story where names that have contributed to the history of fashion are discovered, such as Dapper Dan or Manuel Cuevas, the tailor responsible for Johnny Cash's characteristic black uniform, the most current models on the catwalks and the influencers which should be followed.
But do not forget that there have been influencers at all times. In the S. XVII, Louis XIV made France the epicenter of glamor and excess.
It was he who popularized red heels for gentlemen -which he has rescued in his Palomo Spain looks, although not in the same color-. His taste for luxury in dress did not wane over the years, as evidenced by the painting that Hyacinthe Rigaud painted of him, hanging in the Louvre.
Few know that Napoleon already used local trade and demanded that everyone who was part of his court wear garments made with French fabrics, it was also his wars (1803-1815) that popularized military uniforms.
No less than in 1890 Thomas Burberry sold his first trench coat and it was he who invented the trench during the First World War.
Among the curiosities that the book reviews, he recalls that the filmmaker Cecil Beaton began working for the American Vogue magazine as a cartoonist before dedicating himself to fashion photography for this magazine, as well as for Harper's Bazaar and Vanity Fair.
The bomber, such a current garment, became popular in 1955 thanks to James Dean as it was part of his wardrobe in the movie "Rebel Without a Cause", in which his adolescent image, clad in jeans with a white T-shirt, continues to cause sighs .
Identical to those generated by the French actor Timothée Chalamet ("Dune", "Little Women"), a fashion icon on red carpets, where he does not hesitate to present himself with very unique garments and combinations.
At the last MET Gala 2021, of which he was the host, he wore a Haider Ackermann tracksuit + tuxedo in white, which he combined with Convers sneakers.
The history and present of great names in men's fashion such as Dsquared2, Tom Ford, the recently deceased Virgil Abloh, Jean-Michel Basquiat or Stephen Jones are part of the pages of The Men's Fashion Book.
In it, Gallagher concludes in his prologue that for years men's fashion has been guided by creative minds from the West or families with pedigrees and points out that "a change from somewhere unexpected that acts as a shock" would be welcome.