Female underwear, as we know today, is surprisingly recent.Untilly entering the twentieth century, the woman had lived locked in the cage that gave structure to her skirts or oppressed by a suffocating corset.And, paradoxically, his life in society, lacking rights, produced the same effect as his most intimate garments.The turning point in the history of underwear began a hundred years ago, with the movement of suffragist women, and it does not seem to have completed until today.

“Interior fashion evolves with society and exterior fashion, if in the 20 it took not chest or curves sure that there would be those who put reducing bands.The woman is going to adapt the underwear to how she wants the exterior clothing to be left, ”he explains to Vogue.It is Nuria Sardá, one of the women who knows the most lingerie, having been born in one of the most emblematic firms in the sector.In 1962 his father, Andrés Sardá, took the reins of the mantilla family business - Jacqueline Kannedy took one of them on a visit to the Vatican - when they stopped being mandatory in the churches.Ahead of his time, the Barcelona, reused all the leftover lace to create lingerie.In 2008, Nuria took over from his father in the creative direction.“We have always addressed the woman, for her to feel good, since the 60s, when my father created the company.Her mission was for the woman to find what she was given that morals.He is never addressed to man, then she already does what he wants with her.Lingerie is almost like going to hairdressing or perfuming you.Do you feel better.That has always been our philosophy ".He tells us in relation to the last feminist revolution that took force three years ago.

As happened with the suffragists, following the Me Too movement, emerged in October 2017, the trend in underwear has changed radically.The woman wanted not only to stop dressing for the man, but to do it without having to hide her defects and loving her body as it is.It was then that the thongs and the panties reduced to the minimum expression gave way to high waist models, the lace was changed to the cotton, and the hoops and fillings disappeared.If in the feminist claims of 1968 they came to burn fartherSecret.

However, that lingerie has adopted simpler and more comfortable forms is more a symbolic act than a feminist condition.Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie defends feminism as freedom of choice to carry what the woman really wants, even if her desire is a set of lace: “If he likes makeup, let him put it on.If you like fashion, let it look.And if he doesn't like any of this, leave her alone.Do not believe that educating in feminism means forcing to reject femininity.Feminism and femininity are not exclusive ".The writer expressed in an interview in Racked: "I think it's time to stop that stupid idea that, in some way, if you are a serious woman you can't and should not worry about your appearance".

Although Me Too has caused the demand for fasteners without a hoop to grow, ecological consciousness has pushed us to opt for natural tissues and the months of confinement have made us prioritize comfort, there is another trend, just as strong, thanSearch, again, sophistication.“At the moment we are living a very strong change in every way and reality also influences us in our way of acting.There are two inclinations, that of cotton and comfortable garments, but as in everything, we do not always do the same.We do not carry, for example, the same shoes for everything, and the underwear either.I have seen it with the swimsuits, with which people have really wanted to joy, summer, dress, buy a new swimsuit and enjoy.There is a time to be comfortable at home and one to look pretty, to get on morals and mood.The underwear that favors you has a very large pull, ”says Nuria Sardá.

But female underwear has not only evolved with the role of women in society, but also has done so with economic crises.And not precisely towards his most austere face, quite the opposite.In times of greatest need, abundance has been carried inside.It happened in 1947, when Dior, in the postwar period, launched its famous New Look collection, a silhouette that, like all trends, needed an internal support, in this case, a girdle that shapes the silhouette sand watch silhouette.The Gulf crisis, in the 90s, brought with it the Wonderbra and the Hello Boys campaign starring Eva Herzigova, one of the biggest lingerie revolutions: “For me one of the most striking moments was the era of the Push-Up because it was abrutal change.Previously it was the whole natural body, the figure, and suddenly it was to join the chest and raise it in a bestial way.Changed totally and was widespread, everyone had to have that bra.The way of seeing the chest and the figure changed, ”recalls Nuria Sardá, who has witnessed how lingerie has evolved with social changes.“At my father's time he wore a type of panty, when the women began to wear pants and had to have the super tight figure, but the ass was crushed.Then my father invented a girdle that had an opening so that he did not crush his ass and the figure was more natural ”.They were 60 and the woman had just incorporated into the labor market.

Today, before a new crisis in which comfort seemed to be imposed due to the proliferation of teleworking and the reduction of social plans, the story is repeated again and the cotton of the iconic sets of Calvin Klein that are fashionable again, notThey seem to be enough for a woman who can finally choose what she wants to wear.“In addition to being beautiful underwear, there are many types of bodies and some need some supports.Maybe the person who did not need glasses before, now he does not put them but there are many people, for example, who do not have both breasts of the same size, because he has suffered some kind of operation or because his body is not symmetrical, weWe make models in which you can get the interior fillings to compensate for these differences.Underwear helps women also being a bit cosmetic ”.

And, magically, for the first time in the history of fashion, we are in a period in which everything (absolutely everything) takes, and choosing a certain garment begins to be more a matter of personality than trends.But how to get to this conclusion if we can't see it?Nuria Sardá gives us the best measurement trick: bath clothes.“You can see very extreme panties, almost eighties, next to high culottes.Currently the trend is that each one looks as they want, that there are no rules and that nobody has to tell you how you have to dress.At a given time you may want a spectacular and minimal garment or a spectacular and maximum.And both are trend.And there are no impositions.People are tired of so many norms and have to do with the claim of individuality.You do not have to follow anyone to have a style, the own style and personality of each one is claimed.Before everyone had to go in a certain way, and in the middle of the population I was sure that they were not going but they had to put it to be fashionable.And I think that now has already been totally abolished.People have understood that the important thing is you and your personality and that what is worthwhile is to put yourself as you like to see you.There is a desire to feel good, that always prevails ".