At the end of the island of Lanzarote, almost playing the island of Lobos with the palm of the hand with the sigh of Pechiguera, illuminating the road is one of the most incredible private villas complexes that can be found on the island of Lanzarote. Y dentro, pero abierto al público en general, la que sin duda es una de las propuestas de alta cocina más interesantes que se han abierto no solo en la isla, sino en toda Canarias en los últimos tiempos, Kamezí Deli & Bistro.
When one crosses the doors, the eyes open as dishes because this space is not expected, a mixture of “market” where you can find premium local products -among those that caught my attention, preserves of tuna made in Lanzarote (which while while whileI write I realize that I forgot to buy at the end, excuse already to return as soon as possible)-, but above all, product and raw material with which the kitchen and the room are supplied to make their own creations.On the left, fruits, vegetables and plants within reach of the kitchen and cocktails.In the background, an oven where they make fresh and artisanal bread daily, which is to cry because Lanzarote has a very serious problem with quality bread: there is directly on the island.Every corner of the room, with the kitchen in sight where its boss is in command, Abel del Rosario, has some magic that almost invite you to discover for yourself, rather than tell you the movie from beginning to end.I think it is justice that you can move at the same level as anyone does, as happened to me, that I did not know everything that hides behind.
Eye to Ruth Nieves, a young professional who treasures as much experience as talent in his hands, one of the most interesting people I have found in this segment in the islands and who can look at you with any of the greats we have in the archipelago.In fact, on my next visit to this house I will leave the wines next to and I will dare to a pairing from their cocktails.As it shows, the courage that shows in its particular version of the Bloody Mary with Kamezí's name, touches of dry pejines and smoked black pig and infused with vodka blacka, which position it directly to one of the best drinks that I have tried this year.Spot.
After enjoying the sunset taking that cocktail and stopping time watching how the sun falls between Fuerteventura and the island of Lobos, you enter the room again.Distributed in different ranges, the distance between the tables is not that they are scrupulously complied.In my range, a young Galician marriage/honeymoon to which the placidity of the night united us in a pleasant conversation and from here the wink: that they are very happy, couple!
Entering the menu, splendidly presented throughout the dinner by Sergio, director and authentic leader of the room, begins with red tuna of what is left of the season in a snack bite to which a crispy of Alganori andFRUIT FRUITS MARCHINDA, GIVES FREQUENURA, FLAVOR AND PUNCH.To return and repeat the carabinero with discards from Gamba de la Santa with its dehydrated and crisp.Rogue the closure of this sequence through a rooster with passion fruit, thread ice cream (corn pop.
The bread arrives at the table with butter farm of Uga, salt of the north of Lanzarote and boiler oil of Arroyo.Doubts create the squid dish with white chocolate, chili and boiled mojo, I don't finish fitting the sweet touch that is added.Tasty and pure roots the old clothing of tollos and almogrote foam.Excelsas the ribs with cabbages and pineapple, black pig with its roast and mojo millo in the form of popcorn.Another dish to repeat.
The final part of the salty menu plays with a two against two the sea and the mountain.Of the nearest ocean, the sama with kale, carrot and fennel, elegant.Pure rock the old woman, at low temperature with a background based on meloso (how little we cook in the Canary Islands when it is part of our roots), coconut and sweet potato yolk that closes a majestic sea pass.
I look like absolute sensitivity and emotional intelligence the ingredients of the meat pass, with the kid as the first pass in a table deployment that begins with an assortment of Canarian naips (native knives) handmade for the premises itself for the premises itself.Nothing better than a kid to make use of the one accompanied by a beet and pineapple couscous, chard and black beer, all integrated into serious palate snacks.Finally, a sweet and funny rabbit corn dog accompanied by Canarian salmorejo, guincial and avocado/maracuyá.Despite being delicious, I find a big but lack of courage and throw to surrender directly to finger food.I find radical flavor like Dabiz Muñoz's kitchen in Streetx.From here, Abel, as I told you there, throw yourself.
The sweet sequence, another sample of the chef's intelligence since it flees fireworks and goes straight to the grain with a sober proposal consisting of a preposter based on mango, coriander, avocado and lima with the intention of cleaning and refreshing the palate, objective that fulfills.He continues with a creme brullé that would be another of those “dishes to return” that Julia Pérez Lozano always says made with yolk sweet potatoes, semi -pure cheese flower of light and goat milk from the Uga estate.
I already talked to them before the room and its professionalism.Sergio looks when he takes the cheese car, fundamentally canaries, and before dessert prepares you an assortment to taste.In the Sumillery we find Victor, to which his recent incorporation prevents me from assessing the proposed pairing to its fair measure.Today's today has not lived up, no wine was wrong, but if everything in cooking has a direction and a conductive thread, in the winery it has to be the same and that feeling I do not have it.
To conclude, I'm going to stop at Abel del Rosario's kitchen, authentic soul mater of the project in the stove.“The bet of the Eguren Kertudo family, owner of everything that Villa Kamezí is doing to value the local product and the vision of the Canarian cuisine as I want to take it in the fires is being a luxury.For a cook of the island like me it is a luxury that let you work and be able to choose suppliers, know them and turn them into allies to travel together.I can't stop exciting myself with every small detail that we have distributed throughout Kamezí remembering the legacy of César Manrique, although my favorite site would almost tell you that it is the bathroom (laughs) because it takes me to my grandmother's house, as they were structuredBefore the bathrooms in the houses of the island, ”he confessed with brightness in his eyes.And certainly they have something special that I will not reveal.
When concluding the evening we resume the situation of the sector on the island, the only one that has suffered phase 4 and has had Kamezí closed for too long.“It is being a tremendously complicated year with the continuous fluctuations to which the pandemic is hitting us, but we have the very marked idea of what is the path we want to carry and I think we are well focused.Of course, with a world ahead to go, this is just the beginning, ”said Abel.
Y sin duda estoy de acuerdo en algo, Kamezí Deli & Bistró es un sitio que debería ser de peregrinaje obligatorio para todos aquellos amantes de la gastronomía en Canarias; merece la visita de las grandes guías para conocer lo que están haciendo y, sobre todo, es un punto de orgullo para Lanzarote recuperar un establecimiento que apueste de manera rotunda y con personalidad propia por la alta gastronomía, huérfana en la isla desde el cierre de La Tegala, hace ya cuatro años.
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