El kimono (着物) es la vestimenta tradicional japonesa, aunque en la actualidad se usa casi exclusivamente en momentos festivos y especiales. Sin embargo, no existe un único tipo de kimono y no todos valen para todas las ocasiones. Por si fuera poco, existen muchos accesorios diferentes para complementarlo.

In this complete article we will talk about all these types of kimonos, their history and when to use each of them.In this way, when you see someone in Japan wearing the traditional way, you will have much more information.

If this topic interests you and wants to expand information and see Kimonos live, we recommend you visit Kimonos Kagon Yuzen from Kanazawa or The Costume Museum in Kyoto.

Japanese clothing in front of Western clothes

In fact, the Japanese word Kimono is a modern term that arises in the Meiji restoration.Its meaning, in addition, covers any type of clothing, something you can check if we look at how it is written in Japanese.

Kimono, 着物, is a word composed of two ideograms: 物 (monkey), which literally means "thing", and 着 (Ki), abbreviation of Kiru which means "dress."Therefore the word Kimono means "things that dress" or simply and plain, clothing.But do not be wrong, because although every kimono is clothes, not all clothes is a kimono.

When the Westerners arrived in Japan after the country's opening, they saw people wearing these clothes.And they were asked about their dress style, seeing how different it was to what they dressed.The Japanese answered, simply, using the word "kimono."Until that time, no word had been coined in Japan to define its traditional way of dressing because it had not been necessary.

Brief history of kimono

But although the word Kimono arises during the Meiji restoration, traditional Japanese clothing is a little older than all that.Next we briefly tell you the story The dress in Japan.

In the Jomon period (until the third century BC.Later, already in the Yamato period (III A V E. C.), the Japanese were influenced by Chinese culture in dress, as in many other cultural facets.From this influence they learned to raise silkworms and then wear that silk in making their clothing.

However, in this period there were still no techniques to dye the fabrics, so the clothing was white and two separate pieces, being the upper with tight sleeves.Chinese merchants subsequently introduced Hanfu -style clothes, which being of a single piece is considered to influence the development of the kimono later.

During the periods Asuka and Nara (710-794) the Japanese continued to wear two well-differentiated pieces, but with more colorful designs since techniques were already known to dye silk.Additional garments were often dressed in several layers.

But it was not until the period Heian when a new technique was developed to make these garments.This new method consisted of cutting pieces of rectangular fabric that were then sewn together with each other.In this way, clothing manufacturers did not have to worry about the shape of the body of the person who was going to wear that garment, because the size would be standard for all.And precisely this technique is the one that is still used to make a kimono.

In addition, in this period women used to wear a white garment of small sleeves called Kosode (小 小).The name of this garment means "small sleeves" and although it was originally an inner garment, it can be considered as a precursor of the modern kimono.The Kosode dressed with some Hakama (kind of skirt-paid) above or with a kind of apron called mo.

Naturally, these straight cut garments offered many advantages and that is why they soon imposed themselves as a garment of common use.On the one hand, they were very simple to bend but they could also be carried in any season.If it was cold, you just had to get more layers to be hot.While in summer, you could wear a single layer and use cooler fabrics.

Over time, and especially in the imperial court of Kyoto, the practice of dressing kimonos without lining in several layers became fashionable.The most frequent number of layers was twelve and from here comes the name of this clothing in Japanese, Jūni-Hitoe (十二 単衣).Nowadays at very ceremonial moments it is still used, such as in the enthronement of Emperor Naruhito in 2019, his wife, Empress Michiko dressed a Juni-Hitoe.

Despite the large number of layers, they could all be seen at the ends of the sleeves and neck.This made the Japanese begin to take care of harmony between the different colors of each of those layers.These combinations used to represent seasonal motifs or the political class to which it belonged.

During the periods Kamakura (1192-1338) and Muromachi (1338-1573), both men and women began to wear very bright clothes.The warriors dressed in colors that represented their leaders, so that the battlefields almost became a fashion parade.But at this time of wars the samurai had neither time nor patience to dress so many layers, so that fashion fell into disuse.

Posteriormente, durante el periodo Edo (1603-1868) el clan Tokugawa dividió el país en dominios feudales controlados por señores feudales llamados daimyō. Los samuráis de cada señor feudal, entonces, empezaron a identificarse por los colores y los patrones de sus «uniformes». Estos uniformes tenían tres partes:

With so much clothes to make, the technique and manufacture of these garments ended up becoming an art.Thus, these clothing became increasingly valuable and that was when the current tradition of leaving them in inheritance from parents to children began.

During the restoration of Meiji (1868-1912), Japan was very influenced by Western culture, after more than two centuries of isolation.Japan wanted to look at the Western powers equally and pushed the people to adopt western habits and clothes.

In addition, both members of the Government and the Army were forced by law to wear Western clothes in their official functions.Everything caused that the use of kimono began to decline as a garment for everyday use and that it became a garment only for special occasions.

During the first years of the Showa period (1926-1989), in the middle of the prebélico, the Government restricted the production of silk by raising the associated taxes to support the military industry.This caused the Kimonos designs to become much less complex.

After World War II and as the Japanese economy was recovering, the kimono became more affordable and began to produce in large quantities.The new concepts and ideas about the fashion that came from the United States and Europe affected their prints but the shape of the garment remained unalterable.

But at present the Japanese use the kimono quite little in their daily lives.In fact, this garment is usually reserved for special occasions such as weddings, funerals, tea ceremonies or festivals and special events.

But there are those who try to make a hole in society again.Thus, there are Kimono clubs where its members always wear this way, or actors like Oguri Shun who have dressed Kimono for the premiere of one of their films.

Or even Japanese designers like Jotaro Saito who use fabrics such as Vaquera (or Dénim) fabric to make kimonos.And, although these special kimonos are not for the majority use (especially for the price!), They have become an object of desire for many Japanese.

How to make a kimono

The method used to make a kimono is unique.First, such a fabric is cut into 8 parts.Such is a piece of cloth 12 to 13 meters long and 36 to 40 centimeters wide.These eight parts are then sewn so that the basic form of the kimono is obtained.

Two of these parts are sewn to form the main part of the body, while two others are used for sleeves.The necessary width in the part of the kimono under the neck is achieved another part, a little less wide than the rest (normally half), and the neck is achieved with another part of half the width.

The real width of the garment and sleeves adjusts thanks to the way of doing seams, while the length varies, simply, choosing more or less long parts.

In the case of the geishas or maikos who watch their peculiar ceremonial kimono, the situation is something different.And it is that in the kimonos that they wear two so of cloth are used instead of only one and up to three for those who wear the coldest winters.In addition, it is important to emphasize that in the elaboration of the kimono all the fabric is used, without wasting a single centimeter.

Generally all kimonos are made with silk, but some special garments such as the Yukata, which are dressed in summer, are usually made of cotton.Today, anyway, many kimonos are made with polyester or other synthetic fibers to reduce the price.

As for size, most current kimonos are of a standard size, but historically there was a greater variety of sizes.The most frequent measures today are:

The parts of the kimono

A kimono has many more parts than it seems and also all have a name.Here are what they are.

Ahead you have the following parts:

Seeing the Kimono behind you have the following parts:

The advantage of making the kimono with so many parts is that, if any is spent or we need to make an arrangement, you just have to replace the part spent by a new one and re -sew it together with the rest.

Kimono types

When you decide to dress in the traditional way you have to choose the type of kimono for the occasion.And then combine it appropriately with the rest of the accessories, of course.In fact, accessories and accessories that are going well with a type of kimono may not go well with another.Therefore, if you want to have a good closet background with kimonos for all occasions, you also need matching accessories.And this triggers the expense.

Therefore, as today do not often dress with Kimono, women tend to invest in a single type of kimono that serves as many occasions as possible.Thus they only have to buy accessories and accessories for that kimono, reducing total spending.

Here are the different types of kimono that exist and when each one is used.Although there are many, surely when you see one of these in Japan you can recognize them more easily.

Take the most formal kimono

Tomesode (留袖) is one of the types of kimono that you will most frequently see in Japanese weddings.It is, in fact, the most formal kimono that married women can dress.But its high price and the few occasions in which it is dressed makes it rare.

According to his Kanji, the first (留) comes from the verb Tomeru (留める) which means "tie."The second (袖, Sode) means "manga."Therefore, the meaning of the kimono takes is that it carries the sleeves tied.This comes from when, in the past, the longest sleeves of the kimono of single women were tied.In this way they did not bother when doing domestic work.

In the end, not to have to tie them, the sleeves became shorter when these women had family responsibilities.

The length - or fall - of the sleeves of a volume varies with the age of the person who saw it.Thus, the standard length is 60 centimeters up to 30 years.From that age, the length is shortly shortened with each decade, up to 50 years.From 50 years the length or fall of the sleeves is 49 centimeters.

Tipos de tomesode y cuándo vestirlos

El tomesode puede ser de dos tipos, negro (llamado entonces kurotomesode) o de color (irotomesode). La única diferencia entre ellos es, precisamente, el color del tejido del kimono. Pero aunque no lo parezca, no es una diferencia pequeña, ya que esa diferencia de color cambia el grado de formalidad del kimono.

Thus, the kurotomesode is dressed only on very formal occasions.In fact, its use is only indicated at weddings and only for the closest relatives of the bride and groom, such as mothers.This kimon always includes 5 family or kamon blazons.

On the other hand, Irotomesode or color shoes are also seen at weddings.And despite its greatest color, it is still a very formal kimono.In this case, however, the friends of the bride and groom are seen, that is, people with a not -so -close relationship.Of course, keep in mind that we talk about soft and unhealthy colors.

Irotomesode is the most appropriate kimono for a formal party and can be dressed to attend a tea ceremony, if you don't have another better option, although it is not the most appropriate.It always includes blazons, although its number can vary between 1, 3 and 5.

Cómo distinguir un tomesode

It is quite simple to know if a woman is wearing a take.To do this, you have to look at the following aspects:

Furisode, for single girls and young people

El furisode (振袖) es el kimono formal para chicas y jóvenes solteras y, por tanto, equivalente al tomesode. Su característica principal, además de su gran colorido, es la gran longitud de la caída de las mangas. Si miras los kanji, el primero (振, furi) significa «movimiento, aleteo», mientras que el segundo, como ya hemos contado, significa «mangas».

Thus, it was said that a girl could catch a man's heart in the long sleeves of this kimono if he moved them gracefully.

The Furisode also has bright, colorful and very striking patterns designs.And unlike in the previous kimono, here these designs charge the entire kimono.

Tipos de furisode y cuándo vestirlos

There are three types of furisode, depending on the length of the fall of the sleeves:

Any Furisode type kimono is dressed in the most special and formal occasions in which single girls and young people participate.For example in festivities such as New Year, in the celebration of a wedding (if they are the family of the bride and are still single), in the first tea ceremony of the year, etc.They are not, therefore, suitable for situations of less formality, because it seemed that you are too elegant.

Today, the only people who wear these types of kimonos regularly are the Maikos, Geisha's apprentices.In his case, the furisode they wear is a bit different because their lower part is longer and drags.That is why when they walk they hold the leftover part of the fabric with one hand, showing the inner kimono in the process.

The accessories that accompany the Furisode type kimono have to contribute color to the set.For example, an interior kimono decorated with the Shibori technique or painting with template with Katazome technique, which contrasts with the color of the kimono.

As for the OBI, it is bright colors and fukuro style.In addition, a silk obi-decoration decorated with Shibori that shows an important part of it above the OBI (something that married women do not do).The set is completed with Zori sandals with a golden brocade, red or red.

Cómo distinguir un furisode

Distinguishing the furisode is very easy thanks to its unique characteristics.You just have to look if the sleeves have a great fall that reaches the ankles.In that case you are facing a Furisode type kimono, without a doubt.

In fact, there is no other type of kimono that has that same length of sleeves.It is a curious contrast to the complexity that exists to distinguish the rest of Kimonos.Because others have all the same sleeve length, but very diverse styles.

Homongi or visit kimono

The Hōmongi (訪問 着 着 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 訪問 clothing)) is one of the most versatile kimonos, since it serves a large number of occasions.And it is formal, but not so much to make it look like you are too elegant.

He used to be the most typical type of kimono for when he visits someone, hence his name.

This type of kimono has small sleeves and you can find it in any color.Although he was one of the most used for his versatility, he has recently begun to give way to the Iromuji Kimono with blazons as daily clothing.More than anything because this other type of kimono is also very versatile and, nevertheless, cheaper.

Today it is normal for this kimono not to have blazons.Some time ago, when it was more frequent to dress from Kimono, a homongi without blazons was something unthinkable.And this kimono was sometimes used quite formal.

But since the 1960s and 1970s began to be used for a greater number of occasions, which no longer required such a high degree of formality.In fact, if you are looking for an online website for the sale of Kimonos you will see that all its homongi with blazons are old.

Cuándo vestir un homongi

This kimono is semi -formal although if family blazons are added, it can be used on formal occasions.But as we said, it is less and less frequent to see blazons in this type of kimonos, unless it is old.

Thus, a formal homongi with blazons is even slightly excessive, such as to go to see theater or concerts, which are not such formal occasions.

In addition to visits, theater or concerts, another occasion to dress Homongi is a wedding and its subsequent banquet.In this case, the bride's friends will often take this type of kimono.And they need to dress something formal but without reaching the end of direct relatives.

For an important dinner you can also wear this type of kimono.But to stay to eat, which is usually somewhat less formal than a dinner, a homongi with blazons is advised.A semi -formal one, without blazons, would be acceptable although, again, it is not the best option.

You can also see Kimonos of Homongi type at meetings around a tea ceremony, in floral or ikebana arrangement exhibitions, in some New Year celebrations, etc.It is also the type of kimono most used by the Geishas to attend banquets when they do not have to make makeup in a special way.In this case, they usually dress them with blazons.

Cómo distinguir un kimono homongi

This kimono is characterized by carrying designs or patterns dyed in the lower part as well as sleeves and back, reaching the shoulders.The main difference with other kimonos with designs and patterns drawn on the fabric is that in this case, the pattern is asymmetric and continued on seams.

The kimonos have a series of seams between the different sections of the fabric that compose it, as we already explained.In the case of the homongi a type of pattern called EBA is used.This type of pattern assumes that the drawings continue between two sections of fabric separated by a seam.

This makes it more complex to make when the drawings are independent and circumscribed to a single section of the fabric, without touching any seam.Therefore, this type of pattern makes the kimono more elegant but also more expensive by increasing its complexity.

Cómo complementar un homongi

A kimono of this type is normally accompanied with an OBI of Fukuro or even Maru style, which are the most formal.As for the obi-me, the most normal thing is that it be kumihimo in gold or silver or a saga-noshiki brocade.

On the other hand, the Obi-Age will be colored using the staining technique of the Shibori or Rinzu type silk.This is a way of treating the silk in which different types of thread are used for the warp and the plot, creating patterns that almost look like a brocade.It goes without saying that this type of silk requires a great skill, which makes it very expensive.

Tsukesage, a very versatile kimono

The Tsukesage (付け下げ), as is the homongi, is one of the most used kimonos in Japan.

As in other kimonos we have talked about, the sleeves have little fall and you can also find them of any color.The base fabric is usually rinzu or chirimen type silk (a silk crepe).

But despite its popularity, it happens as to Homongi, which is giving way to Iomuji as a day -to -day clothing to cover as many occasions as possible.

This kimono emerged in the 1930s as a cheaper and less extravagant evolution than the Homongi.That is why it is not surprising that I have so much in common with him.

Cuándo vestir un kimono tsukesage

Tsukesage is a semi-formal kimono when it does not carry family blazons, which is the most normal way you will see it.

However, sometimes you can find some with blazons, making it a little more formal.To wear blazons, you will have one on your back.You can ever see some with 3 blazons, but it is very rare.

This type of kimono can be dressed in a wedding banquet, at formal and informal parties, in dinners, in graduation ceremonies, when you go to the theater or similar, etc.However, for lunches it would be excessively formal.As you can see, the Tsukesage is one of the most versatile kimonos that exist because it practically fits almost any situation.

To accompany this kimono, an OBI of Fukuro or Nagoya style is usually chosen.In this case, for example, it is never complemented with a Maru-Obi type OBI, the most formal one, as was the case with the homongi Kimono.

Cómo distinguir un kimono tsukesage

Distinguishing between a Tsukesage and a Homongi is one of the most difficult tasks for the unreasonable eye.And, as we said, one is the evolution of the other and both are used practically in the same situations.

In this case, the Tsukesage kimono also has designs or patterns dyed in its lower part as well as in the sleeves and back, reaching the shoulders.The most normal thing is that you see designs and patterns at the back of the right sleeve.Ahead, you will see the designs in the front of the left sleeve.

But unlike Homongi, these drawings in each tissue segment are independent of the rest and are not continued on the seams.This makes it much easier to draw these patterns on the fabric.And it is not necessary to be careful so that the drawing has continuity when the different pieces of the kimono are sewn.And as is simpler, it is also cheaper.

Kimonos híbridos entre tsukesage y homongi

It is often easy to fall into the temptation to think that, as kimono is traditional Japanese clothing, it does not suffer variations and remains immutable over time.But the truth is that kimono is a living fashion, although when used by few women and rarely, the variations are slower.

A proof of this are the hybrid kimonos between the Tsukesage and the Homongi, which would be located in an intermediate formality step between them.You can distinguish them because in their lower part the designs are continued above the seams, like all good homongi.But if you look at the sleeves, the designs there are independent of each other, as in a tsukesage.

Iomuji or unique color kimono

Iromuji type kimono (色無地) is characterized by being a single color (which is what its name indicates (Iro means "color").

In addition, it does not carry any design dyed on the fabric.Only the pattern of the material with which it is manufactured.These kimonos are usually made of satin (Rinzu), crepe (chirimen) or tsumugi dyed in a single color different from black.

Despite this, this type of kimono is valid for any formal situation.In fact, it is used in all ceremonies that mark a change in a person's life.Thus, at a funeral the mourning black Iromuji, called Mofuku, is used.

Mofuku o kimono de luto

The Mofuku (喪服), as we said, is an Iromuji kimono of mourning that is used at funerals or in religious services in memory of the deceased.Its main characteristic is that it is totally black and carries five blazons.

Both married and single women can wear this type of kimono combined with an OBI and black accessories.But the most normal thing is that only the women of the close family of the deceased look like this.The rest will carry kimonos in colors turned off with the OBI, Obi-Jime and Obi-Age Black.Sometimes, even the black color is limited only to the obi-age and the objime.

Shiromuku, the wedding kimono

The Shiromuku (白無垢), whose literal translation would be "pure white", is the kimonus used at weddings.It is actually a white uchikake, with the padded hem.

The use of white color symbolizes the rays of the sun and the goddess of the sun, Amaterasu, the main of Japanese mythology.It really is an impressive kimono, because not only the kimono is white, but also all accessories and accessories.

In addition to this, the bridal attire is completed with a white hood called Wataboshi (帽子 帽子), with a meaning similar to the veil at Western weddings.This hood only dresses when the bride carries the Shiromuku and outdoors.So you will never see it with color kimonos or during the banquet.

In addition to this the bride also carries the tsunokakushi (角隠 し 角隠 角隠 角隠).Its meaning is to "hide the horns" and represents the kindness and obedience of the bride to the boyfriend.These horns, according to tradition, grew to the woman when she became jealous and became a demon.

During the banquet the bride uses an uchikake (打 掛).Actually, it is an open red kimono and with a silk brocade with finely drawn reasons that dresses above the white kimono.

Komon, an informal kimono

Komon type kimono (小紋) is a generally informal kimono, characterized by a small pattern repeated by the entire kimono.In fact this is what his name means in Japanese, "little patron."

You can dress for day to day or, along with a beautiful OBI, to go to a restaurant.And this type of kimono can be carried by both married and single women, with the only difference in the length of the sleeves.

The OBI and the rest of the accessories depend on the situation for which the komon is seen.Thus, you can use a Fukuro-Obi with a quality komon.Or you can wear a Nagoya-Obi as informal clothes, although you can also use the Hanhaba-Obi style to give it a personal touch.

There is a special type of kimono komon called Edo Komon (江 戸 小紋), which is characterized by small organized points forming larger designs.The dyeing technique of this kimono originated among the samurais of the Edo period.

A kimono of this type has the same degree of formality as an iRomuji, and if it took a Blazon, it could be used as a garment, equivalent, then, to a tsukesage or even a Hōmongi.

Yukata

The Yukata is a garment that is often called "summer kimonus."It is not really a kimono but a garment without lining made of cotton or other plant fibers, which is used in the hottest year stations.In fact, there are kimonos with tissues without lining and very vaporous that are used in summer.

Japanese yukata means "swimsuit" (ゆか た).In fact, it was originally a garment with lining that the Japanese nobles of the court wore after taking a bath.Then it was the samurais who started using it and, finally, the rest of the population.And, of course, for more occasions than after leaving the bathroom.

Today it is common to see the Yukata in traditional Japanese accommodations or Ryokan.These traditional hotels offer Yukata to their guests to look at them while they stay there.

In modern Japan, therefore, Yukata has become a daily use garment in summer with a wide variety of colors.It also dresses without interior kimono under.

The most classic colors are white and blue, usually dyed with the katazome technique.But there are modern models in any color you can imagine, for all tastes.

With the Yukata an OBI of Hanhaba style is used, half wide of a normal OBI.Thanks to this, it is much more comfortable when it comes to tie it and does not need as much effort and in the case of kimono.

As this garment is so informal, it is not usually required to carry obi-age or object, although it can be used if you want to go a little more elegant.As footwear, wooden geta sandals are used, without tabi socks.

The OBI, accessory to close the kimono

The OBI (帯) is the Japanese equivalent of a belt and is needed to dress in the traditional style, either with Kimono or Yukata.

Its function is to keep the kimono in place and close the front.In addition, as an aesthetic element, it is unthinkable to conceive of traditional Japanese clothing without it.And not in vain, Kimono's choice automatically influences the OBI that will be used.

Brief History of the OBI

The history of the OBI as a decorative element when dressing the kimono dates from the beginning of the Edo period (1603-1867).Until the end of the Momoyama period, in 1603, the OBI was a fine cord.It was nothing more than a fabric that was rolled around the kimono and whose only function was practical: prevent it from opening.

Then, both men and women tied their OBI in front, behind their backs or even to the side, according to the personal taste of each and the fashions of the time.

However, from the middle of the Edo period the Kosode took the form of traditional Japanese clothing today.Then the OBI began to widen and, with it, its importance as an aesthetic element within the set began to become more vital.At that time fashion changed and OBI became tied to the front, like those that were shown in the UKIYO-E engravings.

The legend says that the OBI widened so much during that period because a famous Onnagata (Kabuki actor specialized in interpreting female papers) of the time, being very high, needed a very wide OBI to seem lower than it really was.

Another of the explanations that are given was that when the length of the sleeves grow and hang almost to the ankles, the narrow obi that was then used was ridiculous.Therefore, he had to widen so that the set continued to maintain aesthetics and proportion.

It was also at the end of the Edo period when the style of binding the OBI changed again.That was when it began to be common for single women to bind him behind his back and married to the front.Although shortly after all women would be stuck behind their backs.These changes were due to the discomfort of carrying OBI and more and more wide ties tied to the front.

As a curiosity, the geishas always tied the OBI behind their backs.It was a way of distinguishing, among others, from the courtesans of the neighborhoods of pleasure, that the OBI always tied to the front.

Now that i knowy to cut a passion frouit i think i’m Fully prepared to live on my Own

— ᗢ Sun Apr 18 15:51:53 +0000 2021

The OBI today

The OBI, like kimono, can be of two types.On the one hand of subsequently dyed white cloth or fabric made with color threads.And again, like kimono, it can carry lining or not.If you have it, it is AWASE and if not, of a milestone type in the second.Exactly the same terminology as for kimono.

The vast majority of OBI produced today in Japan come from the Nishijin district in the center of Kyoto.This district is, since the 15th century, one of the main centers of the Japanese textile industry.

High quality embroidery produced there are known as Nishiki, which means "beautiful color combination."These embroidery are characterized by the use of gold and silver threads to make figures of flowers, birds or other traditional geometric designs.In addition to the Nishiki OBI, another OBI style produced in Nishijin is the Tsuzure or Tapiz.These two types of OBI are the most decorated and expensive that exist.

The OBI, as if that were not enough, has to be of a color that complements that of the kimono.This effect can come from the colors completely different from that of kimono, of course, provided they are harmonious.Because this garment is a very important part in the whole, by covering practically the entire abdomen.The OBI pattern or design also has to go in line with the chosen kimono, even if they are completely different designs.

Tyling an OBI is also a complicated task, almost more than dressing a kimono.And, of course, it is something that in many cases cannot be done alone.In addition, for the OBI to have a perfect appearance, accessories are usually used that help to make it perfect, which further complicates the whole process of dressing.

Types of OBI

Not all kimonos accept the same type of OBI, since not all combinations are equally valid.Thus, in Japan there is a wide variety of OBI with different degrees of formality.

In the following table you have a summary of the most important types of OBI and the occasions they dress.The widths are generic, although sometimes they can vary one centimeter or even two.

THE MUSUBI OR LAZO DEL OBI

The Musubi, a Japanese term for "loop", have a meaning that goes beyond mere technical difficulty.The reason is that this word is often written with the characters of "living spirit", considering that good spirits inhabited ties.

In the past, in fact, ties were delivered as a garment of love or even as an amulet against evil spirits.Today this word is still used to name some amulets that are sold in the temples.

It is said that there are some different ways of tieding an OBI bond.The versatility of this element is impressive, as you can see.

When the OBI began to be considered from an aesthetic and not only practical point of view, one of the first wide ties that were used was the Darari-Musubi.This type of loop was lazy and very large and the actors of Kabuki and the courtesans used when they used a furisode type kimon.Today this bond is only used by Maikos.

The rest of the women, which includes geishas and maikos when they are not working, usually use one of the following four ties, which are the most common:

The taiko or drum loop is the most common of all.His name, contrary to what it seems, does not come because he has a drum form, but by the Taiko Bridge of Tokyo.When the bridge was inaugurated, the geishas invited to this ceremony attended with a new type of loop, which resembled the bulging form of the bridge

Although any woman can look, the taiko loop will be more frequent in married women and formal occasions.There are many variations of this bond, which allow the distinction of the marital status of the woman who saw it.

Among them, for example, is the Nijū-Daiko, which means "double drum loop" and only married women in certain ceremonial occasions.This bond also has a figurative meaning of multiplying the happiness by two.

As for the Bunko or Cash loop, it is inspired by the way several books have when they are tied with a string to hold them.Nowadays it is normally used with Yukata, although single women dressed on special occasions.

The Kai No Kuchi or Boca de Concha loop is similar to the masculine style of tieding the OBI.But usually only older women look when they wear informally.He does not usually like young girls due to their flat shape in the back.

Finally, the Otatey or arrow loop is a complicated bond that the brides always wear.Although it is also common to see it in single girls on formal occasions.It usually goes along with a Furisode type kimono and its origin is in the arrow laughs carried by the soldiers of yesteryear.

Of course, that these are the four most typical types of ties does not mean that everything is written and coded.In fact, the loop, as a fashion element, is subject to changes, innovations and adaptations.Thus, it is common to see types of strange and surprising ties, especially in summer, when women carry Yukata and try to give an innovative touch with their loop.

In addition to the ties, there are numerous accessories when dressing Obi.The best known are the Obi-Age (a long handkerchief that serves to maintain the OBI in place), the Obi-Jime (strings that hold and decorate the OBI) and the Obi-Dome (Decorative Broches for the OBI).

Dressing in the traditional way in Japan

There are many types of kimonos, with details that can refer to the region in which they were made, at the age of the person who takes it, to the occasion on which he dresses, at the season of the year, etc.It really is a very complex world that requires a detailed and conscientious study to know it in depth.

The modernization of Japan brought great changes to the world of kimono and its accessories.A kimono was designed for a type of wide waist woman, narrow hips and little chest.In addition, it accentuated the parts of the female body that the Japanese standard considered the most sensual: the neck, ankles and hips.

Today, however, the wide hips, narrow waist and long legs as well as a bulky chest, just what the kimono hides.This fact, combined with the greatest use of western furniture, makes the kimonos every time they see less on the street.Of course, on formal occasions, Japanese women continue to wear Kimono.Out of this, only the geishas and Maikos maintain the habit of dressing Kimono daily.

And one of the reasons why only geishas wear Kimono frequently is their high price.Although there are cheap kimonos, silk and hand -painted are a work of crafts and very expensive.

Few women can afford a closet fund composed of these kimonos to dress daily.The geishas do it because, for them, it is another tool in their work.

In any case, a kimono is a great investment.It never goes out of style and barely needs modifications when the passing of the years is noticed.In this way, silk and hand -painted kimonos are inherited from generation to generation.

The layers at the time of kimono dress

A kimono, despite appearances, is a complex clothing, because the complete set consists of several layers.Today, at least, no 12 layers are dressed as in the heian period.The normal thing is that there are two or three layers, that they must dress one by one and without the slightest wrinkle in sight.

First, of course, underwear.In the past, however, we didn't wear underwear when Kimono dressed.Instead, a long and fine fabric piece called Koshimaki was carried around the waist.

Purists, in fact, continue to defend the idea that a kimono should not dress with western underwear.But most people consider the most comfortable and hygienic western underwear than Koshimaki.

The next step is to dress the Hadajuban or inner shirt, along with itsyoke or interior skirt.Sometimes, however, these two garments are replaced by a single long garment that is placed above underwear.

Third is the interior kimono or Nagajuban.It is usually of a color that combines well with the kimono, since the Nagajuban can be seen in the area of the sleeves and in the neck.In the case of the Geishas and Maikos it is not combined.Thus, the geishas usually always carry an inner kimono in pink tones, while the maikos take it in red tones with blank floral print.This is regardless of the type of kimono they watch.

The Nagajuban closes like the kimono, with the left side on the right.And so that it does not open and maintain in its place some strings called Koshi-Himo are used.Then above these strings it is tied with a loop called date-just.At this time is when you can dress the kimonus itself and place the OBI.

Other essential elements that are dressed in the kimono are the Han-Ei (or "half neck"), which is a false neck that is placed on the rear of the neck of the inner kimono.Its purpose is only aesthetic, to remember past times when many more visible layers dressed.Another important element is tabi or socks with separation for the big toe, which are usually white.

Getting everything working perfectly is a titanic task.First you have to get the layers perfectly aligned and without wrinkles.Then, that the V -neck that form the kimono and the inner kimono is perfect.

Then you have to look that the back of the kimono is a little baggy to show the neck slightly.Likewise, it is necessary to show the fair amount of obi-August fabric and, finally, that the OBI has a perfect bond that hangs in the desired way.

All this complexity is something that today escapes the skills of most Japanese.That is why Kitsuke schools have emerged to learn to dress Kimono, where all this and much more are explained.Only geishas have the practice and elegance or Iki necessary to dress a kimono perfectly.

Kimono and family blazons

In Japan all families have their own blazon or family shield, called Kamon in Japanese.It is not something exclusive to high classes or families of samurai ancestry, since there is a record by calling Monten that collects 4590 different blazons.Its use is widespread and appears in all formal kimonos of both men and women.

The custom of marking the kimonos with the Blazon dates back to the heian period, when the nobles and the imperial court began using these symbols.Later, in the Japanese feudal era, only the imperial family, the nobles and the samurais could use these symbols.In these cases, they were used to decorate banners and thus distinguish different families in battle.

At the end of the 17th century, however, it is customary relaxed and the use of the Kamon began to spread.It was then that the first Kimonos decorated with these reasons appeared, to give them a greater degree of formality.

Today, when the Japanese want to dress as a label or formally, they continue to use family blazons.

The Maikos and Geishas are no exception, since an Maiko or Geisha will take the blazon of their okiya while the independent geishas will carry their own.

The different Hanamachi or Neighborhoods of Geishas also have their kamon, which you can see decorating paper lamps, posters and curtains noren to the establishments, among others.

A kimono for every occasion

There are a number of events or situations in which the traditional way is traditionally seen.And they are a great excuse to be able to show the very expensive investments made in this type of garments.Although they are so expensive that sometimes they end up renting, as usually happens in other countries with garments that are not frequent such as the jacket or the tuxedo (tuxedo).

The first of these occasions is the birth of a child, when he takes the newborn to a Shinto sanctuary to ask him to have a life with good fortune.

For this occasion, a kimono with symbols of good luck is dressed, although obviously the little one did not see a real kimono.Because however small the kimino would remain too big for him.

The mother of the little one wears a kimono of the Kurotomesode type, which we have already talked about.This type of kimono will continue to wear it on all occasions and important ceremonies in which her son participates.

Another important occasion to look Kimono takes place in November, during the celebration of the Shichi-Go-San.This holiday is dedicated to boys who turn three or seven years old and girls who turn three or five years old.

The little ones go to a Shinto sanctuary to ask for protection from the Kami and allow them to grow healthy.Both boys and girls dress kimonos of cheerful colors and traditional styles.

Finally, when he turned 20 there is another important occasion to dress Kimono, at the seijin-no-h festival or day of the adulthood.This holiday takes place every year in early January and in it the young people visit a Sitist sanctuary.If you approach someone you can see, in addition, how the girls dress a furisode type kimon.

For the rest of the more or less festive and formal situations that occur in the life of anyone - fiests, funerals, weddings, etc. - Kimono also dresses.Although not all types of kimono are equally valid for all occasions.In the end, the choice of appropriate kimono varies depending on age, sex, season of the year and other variables.

Here are a table in which we summarize the choice of each garment according to each of these occasions:

Kimono fabrics

The fabrics are one of the greatest treasures in the Japanese handmade handicraft tradition.Japanese fabric and dyed techniques were originally imported from China and Korea, when in the eighth century Japan received several silk rolls as tribute to these two countries.

The Japanese, eager for knowledge and curiosity, thoroughly studied these offers and began producing their own tissues.

The formal Kimonos and Obi have traditionally been silk, silk brocade, crepe such as chirim or satin such as rinzu.But these fabrics have always had very high production costs.

Precisely because of the lack of profession enough, together with the economic crisis, the Kimono industry has tried to adapt by producing somewhat more informal and easy to care for kimonos.Today, therefore, most kimonos are rayon, cotton, satin, polyester or other synthetic fibers.

Anyway, there are still handmade kimono fabrics, but this makes the price of the final product more expensive.Therefore, the most normal thing is that fabrics are made with machines to reduce costs and thus be able to offer kimonos at more affordable prices.

All kimonos share a common form, but whatever the material used, they differ clearly as to the way of including patterns or designs.

Those that base their designs on threads dyed before being tissues are called Sakizome (先染め) and generally carry geometric patterns.On the contrary, those who are dyed after being tissues are known as Atozome (後染 め), and usually have more happy styles designs.

And we cannot say which of the two is better, since both techniques have their advantages and disadvantages.The advantage of the fabric fabric with color threads is that the kimono has color on both sides.Thus, if the fabric wears out on the one hand you can turn the fabric and use the opposite side.The advantage of the dyed fabric is that, if the color catches, you can dye again and give the fabric again.

As for the disposition of the patterns, this is something that has been changing over the centuries.Today the asymmetry prevails so you will basically only see symmetry in the Komon Kimono.Asymmetry is a peculiar constant of Japanese aesthetics, as it evokes movement, dynamism, while symmetry implies statism.

Sakizome or previously dyed threads

Sakizome, according to his Kanji, is composed of Saki, which means "first, before" and Someru, which means "dye."That is why this type of kimono is the one that is woven with previously dyed threads.

The designs of these kimonos are symmetrical or geometric, such as color bands, paintings or a spots pattern known as Kasuri.They are traditionally divided according to the type of tissue used:

One of the best known tissue techniques within this group is that of the Tsumugi.It is a very popular guy in almost all Japanese prefectures, which have all their special type of fabric of this type.This fabric is made of raw spive silk that is then stained and subsequently woven.It is characterized that it is done by hand and the thickness of the threads is not constant, leaving a non -uniform appearance.

The Tsumugi originated with farmers who wanted to use the silk capulls that were left over after having sold the best silk.These farmers picked up the cadarzo of these capullos, spun it (tsumugu) by hand and wove kimonos for them and their families.Thus, the kimonos made of this type of tissue are warm and comfortable and have a rustic and homely touch.

This type of fabric for kimono is especially valid to dress at home or in informal meetings, never for formal occasions.And that despite the only thing about its manufacturing process that makes it a very expensive kimono.

The tsumugi kimonos are gradually adapting to the person who saw it, because before the tissue process starch is applied to the thread to make it softer and prevent it from getting released.When this kimon is seen for the first time, starch makes it quite rigid, but as time passes it is detached from the dress with what ends up being a very comfortable garment.

Kasuri spots patterns and spots patterns are the main designs used with tsumugi kimonos.However, it is the Kasuri pattern that produces the most colorful and creative designs for this type of kimonos.

Another fairly typical fabric within this group is Kasuri, a special fabric that is manufactured in the Kurume area, south of Japan.In Southeast Asia is known as Ikat, which in Indonesio means "at and endures."

This type of fabric is achieved by selectively choosing parts of the warp or clutch threads, or even both, which are subsequently tied and stained, before the tile is tile, which makes it a very laborious process.

Whether it is done for silk and if it is done for cotton, the threads stretch on a loom, then the selected areas are tied and subsequently the skeins of threads are submerged in the dyes of the tints.

However, some dye always enters the areas that in principle were intended to leave out of the reach of said dye.This causes a gentle contrast between the dyed and non -dyed areas, with a soft blurred tone that is one of the unique characteristics of Kasuri.

Another type of fabric of this group of the Sakizome is the Omeshi.In the past this was the honorary term to refer to the Kimonos dressed by the members of the Court.Later this term began to be used as a name of a tissue crepe.

After the sericin or gumous layer from the boiling silk is eliminated, the thread is stained and a layer of wax is applied.When weaved, the spinning threads intersect and wove from two by two.

These types of kimonos can be used to make visits if they carry designs painted continuously on seams (EBA style).Or can also be used for day to day if they carry color bands or kasuri patterns.With these kimonos the most typical is using an OBI of Hanhaba style.

A last type of fabric to consider within this group is the Jōfu, a hand -failed kimono with linen and that is a bit more formal than the Yukata.It is usually used with a tissue in silk or fine cotton.

Atozome or dyed after preparation

According to his Kanji, Atozome (comes from Ato, which means "after" and someru, which as we have already seen, means "dye"), these kimonos are dyed after the fabric process.The designs of this type of kimonos are free and with much richer drawings in detail and color than in the case of the Sakizome.

There are several types within this group, classified according to the need to apply or not a dye resistant.This is nothing more than a substance or process that prevents the dye from dying the fabric at certain points.

The two dyeing techniques without resistant, the dye by immersion of the fabric in tinting and the painting of it, can become extremely complex.However, they do not reach a sufficient degree of importance unless they combine with any of the dyeing techniques with resistant.These other techniques are much more important in Japan and the fabrics that are stained in this way have more consideration.

In the techniques that use resistant swelling, the main one is that of dyed Yūzen (友 禅).This technique was invented by Miyazaki Yūzen around 1700. Since then it has been the most famous and recognized technique when incorporating designs drawn by hand on silk fabrics.

One of the reasons for the success of Yuzen lies in its technical superiority with respect to other ways to dye, since the color is stable and water resistant.In addition, it can be used with a wide variety of tissues.Another advantage is in the precision of their designs, which are even difficult to achieve with traditional seam, in addition to enabling a large range of colors.

The main Yuzen production centers are Kaga, in the current Prefecture of Ishikawa near Kanazawa, and Kyoto.The fabrics produced in Kaga are known as Kaga Yūzen and, in the second, as Kyō Yūzen.The former are characterized by lush patterns and very varied colors, while the latter show more symbolic and not so naturalistic designs.

Today, with the use of chemical dyes and with the advantages offered by modern technology, this technique is more active than ever, and the designs are naturally more current.In fact, in Kanazawa you can visit the Kaga Yuzen Kimono Center and do a hand painted workshop on a fabric, in addition to admiring kimonos made with this technique.

Another of the techniques used by resistant swelling, but applied through a template, is the katazome.This technique originated 400 years ago, as a way to include family blazons in the Kamishimo, a part of the formal clothing of the samurai.At that time the templates were made of wood, although later they were made of paper.

The dyeing process consists of using a resistant swelling that applies to the tissue through open cuts in this paper template.The paper template, called Katagami, is placed by placing three sheets of handmade blackberry paper, impregnated with kakis juice.

The swelling, soluble in water, is made based on rice bran and filters through the cuts made in the template, to protect the areas that must remain without dyeing.The fabric, subsequently, is directly stained with brushes or immersing it in dyebas.

If both faces of the fabric had to be dyed, one of the parties would be applied the resistance process to prevent it from being dyed when the process is done for the other face, and vice versa.

Being the paper and not wood template, its manufacture is a much simpler operation.This makes the mass production of kimonos dyed with the katazome technique possible.Another advantage of these paper templates is that, when they started using, they allowed artisans to create small and delicate designs known as Komon.

Because the Kimonos completely covered with the same pattern or Komon design were very popular in Edo, this type of dye became known as Edo Komon, as we have already said.This technique is normally used in Habutai silk, crepe or ro tissue, although it is also used to dye fabrics even cotton.

In the end, the kimono with this type of dye when looking from afar seems to be of a single color, without any design.You have to look at it closely to check the delicate patterns that extend throughout its surface.

This technique implies a great technical mastery both by the person who prepares the template and the one performing the staining process.In addition, the templates are in themselves and in their own right works of art and as such they get to collect.

The objective of the Katazome technique is not to offer a colorful and fascinating kimono, but on the contrary.That is why Komon Kimonos (created from this technique) are on the lowest formality scale.Although we must not forget that the technical process of creation is of a sublime and very expensive and exclusive expertise.

Finally, to talk about patterns resistant who do not use resistant swelling, you have to talk about the Shibori (し ぼり).This is one of the oldest and most used dyeing techniques in the world, mentioned for the first time in Chinese writings of the seventh century.

It is thought that this technique originated in India and arrived in Japan in the seventh century through China.Today, although the technique is well known and used throughout the world, it is in Japan where it presents a greater variety of possibilities.

The fabrics treated with this technique are of the type "tie and dye", which is the translation of this word.But contrary to the Kasuri already commented within the Sakizome section, in this case the dye is done after having woven the fabric.

Often, the different areas of the fabric are marked with a pattern rolling strongly with small sections of a white light silk.When the fabric is stained, the tied areas remain white, forming an irregular pattern.

However, in reality the Shibori is a set of resistance techniques.And all of them involve ensuring or tie the tissue so that the dye does not affect the fabric in the insured areas.This technique is traditionally used in Kimonos and in informal OBIs for men, although it is also used in many other garments.

Logic organization of kimono types

There are so many types of kimono, with so many types of tissue and ways to make the drawings, that organizing them logically to know when to dress each can be a great headache.

One way to organize the kimonos we like is the categorization proposed by the American writer Liza Dalby in her book Kimono: Fashioning Culture.The scheme of her is very clear and encompasses more or less simple all the situations in which to dress a kimono.

Anyway, even this categorization can sometimes be somewhat confusing.Especially since the proposed categories are not stagnant but they overlap.The categories to organize the Kimonos are:

Kimonos of life or death

When someone dies wears a white cotton kimono and an OBI normally woven by their female relatives.Although, as a curiosity, not only the dead dress Kimono Blanco.

As we have already said, at a shining wedding the brides also wear a white kimono.This is so since in the case of it it is also considered that she has finished a life cycle, starting a new one in the husband's family.

However, despite this macabre coincidence, the kimono of a deceased person has a unique feature that does not present any other kimono: the left part of it does not overlap on the right, but vice versa.

Thus, when placing a kimono, he always remembers the fabric on the right side and not on the left.If you did so, it would be like saying that you are dead!

Kimonos according to sex

Although the basic form of the kimono does not vary much between sexes, a connoisseur will never be wrong when distinguishing a male kimono from a female one.

There are subtle differences between these kimonos.For example, the man's kimono is of little striking colors and, if he wears any pattern or design, it is usually simple and distributed throughout the kimono.Only in the formal kimono you can find the presence of blazons, as a special detail.

Also, the man kimono falls straight from the shoulders to the ankles, unlike the woman's.In the case of women, the excess length of the fabric is adjusted in the hips or is dragged, as geishas and maikos sometimes do.

Another difference is in the sleeves.And it is that the male kimonos have them much shorter than the female.In addition, the part of the sleeve that is attached to the body for men is sewn, while in the case of women it is open.

The last fundamental difference between the kimonos of men and women is found in the OBI.In the case of man the OBI is much narrower and is tied in a totally different way.

When they dress ceremonially, men close their kimonos at the height of the hips with a Kaku type, five centimeters wide, which ends up being hidden under the hakama that dress on these occasions.When dressing more informally, men wear a Heko OBI, soft and similar to a handkerchief.

Finally, it should be noted that footwear also varies slightly with sex.Thus, although both men and women use Geta sandals, for example, men are more square.

The season of the year and the kimono

The Japanese pay special attention to nature and the passage of time.The four stations are very present in the daily life of the Japanese and this also affects when it comes to clothing.

Of course, to go totally fashionable and show that you have style you don't have to celebrate the station you are already in.On the contrary, the station that is about to arrive, both in the fabric and color as well as in the reasons drawn.

There are certain kimonos, such as those of unique color, which can dress in more than one station simply changing from OBI.This helps not to spend so much money because you can combine a single kimono with several types of OBI.

According to the season of the year, a distinction can also be made based on whether the kimono carries lining or not.Thus, there is the Kimono Awase, which carries lining, and secondly the Kimono Mileo, without lining.

When do you wear a Kimono of the AWASE type and when a kimon of the milestone type is wears?A Kimono Awase can not only have two layers but also has a lining, so it is natural that it is seen during the autumn-winter season (that is, from October to April).Normally, these kimonos are made with crepe silk also with crepe or muslin lining, very light materials.

The Nagajuban or inner kimono that accompanies it is also lined and, in the case of the Geishas, it is also made of silk.With the arrival of the cold winter, in the middle of December, you need to add a second layer to the Awase Kimono.

Due to their preparation (these kimonos are made with three materials), this type of kimono can weigh about twenty kilos in the case of the geishas.

The use of lining both in the inner kimono and in the kimono will depend on the cold or heat it makes in the month in question.Thus, during the temperate months of May and October, the inner kimono will not have a lining although the kimono will take it.In June, however, when moisture and temperature rise and mark the arrival of summer, both the kimono and the inner kimono are of a single layer, that is, the milestone kimono is used.

During the hottest months (July and August), the kimonos are not strictly of the milestone type, but of the usumon type.These kimonos are made with ro, a fine tissue silk gauze, or with Sha, a silk gauze with a somewhat more rough fabric.As a point, it should be noted that the Kimonos de Ro must carry the rest of the accessories of the same material.

Finally, in September, depending on the temperature that year, the hyitoe kimono is carried, more summery, or a Kimono of the Awase type is started, more warm.

In summary and as you can see, the Kimonos of the Awase type are those that are dressed during most of the year.Therefore, they are the most frequent in the Japanese women's closet.

The milestone without lining, in fact, is no longer used much, because most women do not have a need to kimonos large enough to justify the investment in one that will only dress a few months a year.The most normal thing, therefore, is that at present only the geishas use hyitoe kimonos.

To be able to understand this explanation less complex, we leave you a table to see when you should dress what type of kimono.But remember that, in general terms, Kimono Awase is winter;The spring milestone and the summer usumon.Of course, this are general and flexible rules and there is nothing that prevents adapting to the special circumstances of each station in one city or another.

But not only the type of kimono has to do with the season of the year in question.Color and design also have a very important role in deciding which Kimono to look.

In this way the pale and bright colors, such as light green, are characteristic of spring.Lighter and more fresh colors, such as lavender, call summer.On the contrary, dark, intense and warm colors, such as the color of the changing arce leaves, are typical of autumn.Finally, the brightest and stronger colors, such as black and red, are used during winter.

Finally, the reason for the Kimono designs also varies with the station.As an example, one of the typical spring designs are flower cherry trees, while for autumn are the arce leaves that predominate.

However, as was the case with the presence or not of the lining, only the geishas usually have kimonos with designs that show in a clear and precise way the passage of the stations.The rest of the women often choose Kimonos with more neutral designs that can be used independently of the season of the year.Thus they save a good amount of money.

Kimonos for all ages

We have already said that the type of kimono that a woman saw changes throughout her life, according to her age.One of the clearest moments is during the transition between adolescence and maturity.At that time the sleeves stop hanging up to the ankles and become shorter.

In the past this moment was clearer, because it happened upon reaching marriage.Today, because women marry at the latest ages (if they get married), marriage is no longer used as a time to change kimono.Thus, Japanese women stop dressing kimonos of long sleeves in favor of short -sleeved kimonos around 23 years of age.Although this, of course, is still an approach.

For single Japanese young people, the greatest degree of formality is achieved with the length of their kimono's sleeves, as we said when talking about the furisode.Therefore, it is not necessary for their kimonos to carry blazons, which always express a high degree of formality.

These kimonos, in addition, usually carry colorful designs in the lower part and on the left shoulder.Although the woman turns years, and despite the fact that her kimono sleeves continue to hang, the designs are becoming more discreet and become focused on the lower part of the kimono only.

Kimonos according to taste or class

There are two opposite poles when dressing a kimono with class.On the one hand, that of a young Japanese with little experience and, on the other, that of a geisha that controls and knows even the slightest details of the way of positioning her in society.

The image that a woman wants to give of herself when dressing a kimono has many facets.For example, the way in which the cervix shows part of the neck.Or the way to tie the OBI and its position more or less close to the hips.

In the case of the Maikos there is a curious mixture, since they manage to be sensual while innocent.Thus, they show a good part of the neck, something considered very sensual and attractive.And at the same time they carry the obi tied almost at the height of the armpits, covering the entire part of the bust, something that is considered somewhat remiltered.

Formality at the time of kimono dress

This is where the main problems are when deciding which kimono dress.In the first place, it must be said that the Japanese distinguish between formal clothing, called Haregi (晴れ 晴れ) and informal or daily use, called Fudangi (普 段 着 着 着 着 普 普 普 普 普 着).

As in western parties and events, the degree of formality of the occasion will clearly define what type of kimono you have to dress.However, there are times when it is possible to choose among more than one option.In those cases the choice of kimono is left to the taste and criteria of the person who will dress it.

Talking about formality and talking about Kimono is almost like talking about the same thing, since both ideas are closely linked.It is impossible to choose a kimono without choosing, in turn, the degree of formality associated with it.Everything in the kimono, from color to the fabric, through the designs or even the OBI, says a lot about the degree of formality of the chosen outfit.

By cultural tradition, formal kimonos must be made of shiny tiny dyed.Non -brilliant silks or the rest of the tissues that are used when making a kimono are considered informal.

In fact, silk alone does not indicate that a kimono is formal.A clear example you have in raw silk with Tsumugi technique, which despite the beautiful and face that is only can be used in kimonos of daily use.

Another aspect that marks the formality of a kimono is in the number of designs or patterns on the surface of the kimono.The more covered the kimono of designs or patterns is, the less formal it is.That is why the Komon Kimono, with a design of small patterns throughout the surface of the fabric, is very not very formal and of daily use.

On the next step is a kimono with an asymmetric design that covers only the left shoulder and the lower part of the kimono.If we continue climbing steps, we reach a kimono with the same type of design as the previous one, but with the design continuing on the lateral seams.In the end we reach the most formal type of Kimono, in which the design is only in the lower part.

Formality, however, can also be marked by the length of the sleeves, as we have already said.In principle, the length of the sleeves tells us about the sex and age of the person who wears the kimono.But, as there are three different lengths of sleeves for single girls, a kimono with a length of sleeves different from the standard is of less formality.

Another important point when recognizing the formality of a kimono is the color.In fact, the difference between a semi-textta kimono and a complete label is that the former are color and the second, black.

Thus, and to summarize, the most formal kimono that a woman can get to dress is black, with designs only in its lower part and with five blazons.It is the so -called Kuromontsuki.

Accessories for dressing a kimono

When you wear a kimono there are a good number of mandatory garments and accessories that accompany it.In fact, without them the set would not be complete.

Among them we can cite the following:

Hadajuban (肌襦袢): Inner blouse that takes below the inner kimono.It is normally made of cotton for its qualities to absorb sweat, so that it does not transparent and stain the kimono.

Susoyoke (裾よけ): Interior skirt, which was created in the EDO period as a way to prevent the lower part of the kimono from being stained.Today the so -called interior combination is very popular, which is a garment that combines the inner blouse with the inner skirt.

NAGAJUBAN (長襦袢): Interior Kimono that takes below the kimono.The neck part can carry a Han-ei.When dressing a kimono, only the neck and sleeves of the inner kimono will be visible.But it is still important to choose it so that it coordinates well with the colors of the kimono.It is usually silk, although in winter it can become wool.

Han-ei (半襟): more decorative silk piece than practiced that is attached to the Nagajuban neck or interior kimono.This part is visible when kimono is seen in the back of the neck.Thus, it contributes to make the set more beautiful.In winter you can make wool.They vary from pure target to the profusely embroidered.

Date-ei (伊達衿): In the past another kimonus used to dress under the main occasions, but today there is only the Date-ei, which simulates the existence of this second kimono.It is, therefore, a strip of fabric that is sewn on the neck so that it protrudes a little, of a color that contrast with that of the kimono.

Sometimes it is also coordinated with the color of the Obi-Age.It is normally used with formal kimonos such as the furisode, the Tomesode, the Homongi or the Iomuji.In the case of a Kurotomesode, for example, it must be white.

Koshi-Himo: essential laces if you want to dress a kimono perfectly.The kimono does not carry neither buttons or zippers that allow it to keep it closed, so the Koshi-Himo, of those that are needed between three and five, are the only way to close and tie the kimono well.They are usually from Musline although you can also find them silk.

Date-Jime (伊達締め): Tapes used to close the inner kimono and kimono.After closing these garments with the Koshi-Himo, they close again with the Date-Jime that are placed on the Koshi-Himo, ensuring that they show a flat and not rough surface.The most popular and highest quality date-mima are hakata, silk-style fabrics.

But in addition to this, there are many accessories that usually accompany the kimono.One of the basics are jackets and coats to combat not only cold or rain, but also heat or dust.

Haori jacket

Haori (羽織) is one of the best known and common winter garments not only among geishas but in more modern Japan.It is a slight jacket normally made of silk decorated with Shibori.It dresses on the kimono and its length will depend on the formality of the event: the shorter, more informal.A geisha or maiko, for example, always carry them long to have maximum protection and the greatest formality.

Likewise, the color of Haori can add formality to the outfit.The Black Haori (usually made of silk or crepe) with a single buzel in the center of the back is called Kuromontsuki Haori and takes very formal occasions as graduation or funeral ceremonies.

Likewise, the haori of any other color with designs can be used for New Year celebrations or other happy festivities.In this case, the woman will normally carry the color haori with a kimono without designs drawn on him, such as an Edo Komon or a tsukesage.

Haori is not only used as a solution to the cold, but also as a measure of dust protection of the ancient Japanese roads.

This type of garment was originally reserved only for men who wore him along with Hakama pants.This was so until fashion changes at the end of the Edo period made it a garment also used by women, being the geishas, as always, the precursors of this new fashion among women.

It was the Geisha Tatsumi, of one of Edo's old Hanamachi, who first adopted the fashion of the female haori.Currently, however, the jackets that women wear are usually longer than those of men.And as with the rest of the accessories, the design of this jacket is also consistent with those of the kimono.In the case of men, when combined with the Hakama, it confers a formal aspect to clothing.

Naturally, and as with all the garments that are dressed as a kimono, something is needed to close the haori.In this case we talk about Haori-Himo, a woven cord with tassels that also has degrees of formality.Thus, the white one is the most formal.Anyway, the haori can also be open open, so that the use of haori-signs is not always necessary.

The Michiyuki coat

The Haori is ideal for autumn, when he starts to lower the temperature but is not too cold yet.Therefore, one of the winter coats that offers more protection against intense Japanese cold is Michiyuki (道行), literally "on the road."

We talk about a quite long coat (about three quarters) made of crepe, silk or satin that normally does not carry any design.Given its length, which can cover the entire kimono, the Michiyuki is normally used as a raincoat.

This coat has a rectangular front neck and is usually tied by the front thanks to a series of buttons to the right of the same.

A Michiyuki without designs harmonizes very well with Kimonos of Tomesode, Homongi and Tsukesage type.On the contrary, a Michiyuki with small designs is very good with a kimono also of small and repeated designs such as Komon.

The Dochugi coat

Another garment for the cold winter is Dōchūgi (道 中 着), very similar to a long kimono since it crosses and ties at the waist.However, it is much shorter and usually reaches the hip, being able to be sometimes up to three quarters in length.

The Dōchūgi is a peak neck coat, very similar to the neck of a kimono, although in this case made of wool.This makes it protect much more against the cold but its material makes it very informal.

Other accessories for kimono

For rainy days, Japanese women also look special showers for kimonos made of nylon or transparent plastic.

Finally, on cold days not very intense or when you want to add a more heat layer, it is common to use shales and shares, like any other Western woman.Even the geishas and Maikos do it.

It is the beautiful thing about this garment, that even if it is traditional Japanese clothing, it is also combined with external elements and is still up to date.

As for accessories, the truth is that Japanese women wear them as if they western western clothes.That is, there are hardly any unique accessories dedicated to kimono.

In the past you could wear a special bag for Kimono, which can still be seen today when Yukata dresses.But in many cases there are women who, even wearing Kimono, use their normal bag.

The geisha and the kimono, a shared life

Kimono dress daily is one of the differentiating facts between the geishas and the rest of the Japanese women.The geishas also wear it with a special grace that no other woman can match.

A kimono is, mainly, a social symbol.For the inexperienced eye the kimono that the geishas carry does not differ in anything from the kimono that has any other woman.The subtle differences in the opening of a manga, in the colors or in the way of carrying tied the OBI are not obvious, even for the vast majority of the Japanese.But a connoisseur will appreciate these little nuances, combined with the natural way that the kimono dress geishas have.

When a young woman begins her career as a geisha she needs at least about ten kimonos, along with the corresponding OBIs, to be able to dress appropriately as the station changes.The opposite would mean having to repeat Kimono too often and even dress kimonos with designs that are not consistent with the season of the year.

The cost of this purchase is prohibitive, so most young Geishas have to request a loan and thus begin their career with debts.

We have seen that the main distinction between the Kimonos, according to their formality, is among the Kimonos of the Haregi type, or formal clothing, and those of the Fudangi type, or informal clothing.For a geisha, her artistic skills are naturally the most important thing about her career.But a very important part of her work is the image she offers to her customers.

Therefore, a geisha will never dress Kimonos of the fudangi type (wool, cotton or even some silk fabrics such as tsumugi).Thus, the kimonos that are in the closet of a geisha are always tiny dyed after being woven.The presence of blazons will mark the greater or lesser formality of these kimonos.

Homongi and Tsukesage types, for example, are very useful kimonos for almost every occasions of everyday life except the most formal.Thus, the most normal thing is that the geishas have many kimonos of this type to attend parties that do not require the most formal outfit.

Just below these two types of kimonos is the Komon type, which can be done a little more elegant if the type of OBI that will accompany it is correctly chosen.It is possible that the Geishas see a komon at family parties and with few guests.Or even when they go out, before your workday begins.

The Hikizuri, the Kimono de las Geishas

In the closet of a geisha or Maiko you will see a special kimono known as O Hkizuri (角隠 し).This kimono is longer than normal, being made with two or up to three so of cloth.And his neck falls in such a way that it shows the entire neck of the geisha or Maiko, which as we have already said on other occasions, is tremendously sensual.

The Hikizuri generally carries the padded lining, so in full banquet the geisha or Maiko have the lower part of their hikizuri kimono extended on the ground.In fact, another name that this type of kimono receives is Susohiki, which means "tail that drags."

But the reality is that Hikizuri is not a type of kimono as such, with well -defined characteristics.The name refers to its greater length, only, and any type of kimono made with more fabric and with a bass that would drag would be a hikizuri.Therefore, if a geisha wants to dress a very formal kimono, what she will wear will be a Kurotomesode of Hikizuri type, which the man from Kurohikizuri receives.

But the geishas do not always go to completely makeup banquets or move around the city wearing their best kimonos.Often, in fact, they wear a standard kimono, almost always of the homongi type.Although, yes, they dress it with an unparalleled elegance.

The case of the Maikos is different, because they always go to banquets with their traditional hairstyles, their classic white makeup and with beautiful and colorful kimonos.Therefore the Maiko goes to the banquet wearing a hikizuri -type furisode, with great fall.

Precisely because these kimonos are longer than normal and does not adjust excess fabric at the waist, geishas and maikos hold that excess of fabric by hand.In this way they prevent it from spoiling the streets of the streets and on the other, they leave the inner kimono or Nagajuban, which adds an extra sensuality.If they are in a banquet in a room with tatami floor, then nothing happens because the drag kimono.

This gesture of holding excess fabric is called Hashori and is always done with the left hand.In fact, in the past one of the ways of differentiating the geishas of the courtesans Tayū was to observe with what hand they collected excess fabric.The courtesans held him with his right hand, which made it easy to distinguish them.

A geisha wears the hikizuri with a light pink or red inner kimono, made of silk decorated by Shibori, with the white collar and a date-eri and obi-August in red tones.In this way, the visual effect due to the choice of colors is of great elegance.

The OBI is Maru or Fukuro style, tied so that it shows a great bond from behind.As footwear, the Geisha carries Geta with the Kurohikizuri and Geta or Zōri with a less formal hikizuri.

In the case of Maiko, wears the Hikizuri with an inner kimono with a blank floral print on a red background.The rest of the accessories are also much more colorful than in the case of the Geisha.This contributes to making Maikos a symphony of colors that arouse admiration and curiosity wherever they pass.

In his case, the OBI is Darari type, as well as the bond, which hangs almost to the ankles.As for footwear, they usually use very high wooden sandals Okobo, although today, it is increasingly typical to see Maikos wearing Zōri, either because the girl is too high to wear Okobo or because she is too hurry.

During the minarai, or phase in which the Maiko learns from other geishas seeing them acting, the OBI loop will be of the Han-Darari type.This type of loop is only used in this period and is characterized because the end that hangs is half long than in the normal case.

If you are curious, there is a video in which you can see all the steps of the clothing process of a Maiko.

Special occasions to dress Kimono de Geishas and Maikos

In the case of the Geishas and the Maikos you have to clarify when we talk about occasions when dressing Kimono, on they wear it daily.Therefore, here we refer to special and very important events, which usually require tag or formal and long cut kimonos.Kimonos that do not even wear in their daily lives.

The New Year is the first of the annual occasions in which the Geishas and Maikos wear their black long cut kimonos with blazons, the kurohikizuri or also called Kuromontsuki.

As of January 8, the Maikos and the Geishas wear the same type of kimono but with a color of color different from black.This kimono is called Irohikizuri and is somewhat less formal than the previous one.

Likewise, another special occasion to dress these long -cut black kimonos with blazons are the ceremonies of the omisedashi and the Erikae, which mark the debut of the Maiko and its conversion in Geisha, respectively.

The next occasion to dress a Kurohikizuri is at the Hassaku holiday, in which it is requested for a good harvest.This holiday was traditionally celebrated on August 1, although the concrete date of each holiday can vary something.Of course, it always takes place in moments of very hot.Therefore, the kimono that the Geishas and Maikos wear on this day is made with RO silk gauze, much cooler and light.

Finally, to find another time when Geishas and Maikos look at their best galas, you have to wait until December.It is then that they go to the Minamiza de Kyoto theater to the Kaomise celebration, a three -day representation of the best Kabuki actors of the year.

Accessories for Maikos and Geishas

For rainy days, maikos and geishas need to cover the hairstyle and kimono.To do this they use the traditional umbrella (KASA, 傘), made of bamboo and oily paper and that contains a large number of designs according to the time of the year.There are two variants of the popular traditional Japanese umbrellas, the Bangasa and Karakasa.

Also, in intense sun days these women use Japanese parasol (Hygasa, 日傘) to avoid heat, sweat and spoil their makeup.

This accessory is made of bamboo and silk.In the past, these umbrellas or parasols were the most used by the Japanese in general.

However, currently they can almost only be seen in the neighborhoods of Geishas or as part of the trousseau of a high -class family.Or, of course, in a traditional theater or dance function.

An undisputed accessory also for the young Maiko or the Geisha that dances in a banquet is the folding fan, called Ougi (扇).

Of course, you do not confuse this fan with the popular sensu, which is the fan used by all, men and women, to give air and cool off during the summer.

Maikos and Geishas may or may not carry a sensu fan to combat heat.But what they do always carry is the Ougi fan when going to a banquet.

This type of fan, about 37 centimeters, is made of hand painted paper or fabric and has a bamboo structure.

Decorated with multiple colors and scenarios, folding fans were invented by the Japanese from the rounded fans or Uchiwa that arrived in Japan through China.There are three types of Japanese folding fans, according to their size and number of bones.

The Kawahori (蝙蝠), originally from the Heian period (794-1185), is the largest and most special, since it has only 5 bones.He receives his name from the Kanji de Murciélago (Kuomori, 蝙蝠), since when he unfolds he has a shape similar to the wings displayed of a bat.

Next is the Shimai (仕舞), a medium fan used especially for the theater functions Noh and Kabuki.Finally, you have the Maisen (舞扇) or "Dance A and of only ten bones, which is used in Japanese traditional dance functions.Originally from the Edo period, although he is the smallest of the three, it is too large for everyday use.

From the Muromachi period (1333-1573) these types of Japanese fans are not used in everyday life.But they have remained alive as indispensable elements of the Japanese classical and traditional arts.

The modernization of kimono

Kimono dress is a traditional art in Japan, known in Japanese as Kitsuke.But there are more and more young people who reinvent looks in Kimono, combining them with Western accessories, freeing themselves from conventions and strict traditional norms.

Kimono is almost a Japanese identity symbol that, however, fell into disuse with the modernization and industrialization suffered by the country during the Meiji restoration.But it has currently acquired a new life, although with a very personal touch.

Japanese young people seek to customize their kimonos, want to give them a new and modern touch and sometimes much more informal than strict clothing rules.To do this, they resort to western bags and hats, but also to neck scarves or to replace the objijme.

Even sports shoes and combinations are used with western -style coats, scarves, sunglasses ... everything is valid, there are no prohibitions or norms, only freedom.

Examples that show that this is not a passenger fashion is the popularization of the Kimono Jack event and the appearance of stores specialized in ornaments and accessories to customize the kimono.This event, promoted by lovers of the Kimonus of Kyoto and is held in several Japanese cities and other countries, seeks to revitalize the use of the kimono to "preserve its transmission."

On the other hand, the Hanamusubi store, located inside the department stores Mitsukoshi offers complete kimonos at very competitive prices.In addition, they offer all kinds of ornaments to decorate the kimono and give it a more modern and personal touch, such as broches made with Japanese Washi paper, among others.

Entrance originally published on April 30, 2011. Last update: June 4, 2020