The time has finally come to present the work that has been in the works for months. Fashion is what it has, it is always ahead, since now the collections for autumn winter 2016/17 are going to be shown on the catwalks. One of the first to get underway is 080 Barcelona Fashion, which is held in the Llotja de Mar in the Catalan capital from February 1 to 5. To learn a little more about the innards of this type of event, La Vanguardia has been in one of the steps prior to the fashion shows: the 'fitting'.

What is a fitting?

“They are tests, for a stylist it is their busiest day, because all the looks you have been creating on paper, in your head… you bring them to reality”, explains Ana Pérez, freelance stylist in charge of putting together the fashion show Punto Blanco, one of the highlights of the last edition held in July 2015. "Fitting is one of the most important things there is because you see how a garment moves, how a model defends it, how it walks, how it moves a zipper, how a coat moves, how underwear feels according to each body…” adds the professional from the world of fashion.

From the beginning...

The whole process that is carried out to put together a show begins months before, specifically, "the fitting in my head begins at the moment in which it is known how many looks are made, it is usually two months before more or less" Perez explains. According to her, "you start to have a vision of how you would love things to be and then, thanks to the organization, that letter to the Three Wise Men becomes a reality." It is declared from the old school, in which they usually "create the 'looks' already thinking about the specific models". "If they can come later, luck for everyone, no, well I try to adapt them," he confesses.

Fitting is one of the most important things there is because you see how a garment moves, how a model defends it”

The moment Of action

It is what Ana Pérez calls “real fitting”, since up to now everything has been based on the image. She tells La Vanguardia that "she is usually quite happy because it ends up being very similar to what I had in my head." And so it is. The stylist receives the models with the looks prepared, they try them on and most of them stay with what they had thought of.

Although this is not always the case, because there are times when they are models that they do not know and squaring it costs more. This is the case of Lucía Rivera. It is the first time they have had her in the casting and when trying on one of the looks, both Ana Pérez and the Punto Blanco designers, Bernadette Vanderloo and María José Chamarro, have seen that another option was better. "Lucía is now launching her career, and the important thing is to get to know her and see what type of garments she feels most comfortable with and which ones she is less favored with, which is also important to know in all cases," highlights the stylist, with more than 15 years of experience in the sector.

The models

La 080 has well-known figures from the world of fashion, especially from the Spanish scene, but also internationally. Names like Jon Kortajarena, Clement Chabernaud, Juan Betancourt, Daniela Braga, Rocio Crusset, Joana Sanz... Some of these professionals have been at the Punto Blanco fitting, which lasted from early in the morning until 8pm. Pérez describes the casting of this catwalk as "spectacular", which usually varies until the last moment. “They tell us about the casting three weeks before but then there are always last-minute moves,” he explains.

The moment the model walks through the door can already give Ana an idea of ​​whether she is going to have to make any changes: “Almost always all the models tend to come much thinner than you imagine, both men like women. It is not critical, on the contrary, they show that they take care of themselves and work their bodies properly for their work ”.

His gait

For Ana Pérez, changing her look normally "is the flash she gives me and especially when they walk." As soon as they put on the clothes they are going to wear in the parade, they are made to walk through the small space in which these tests are carried out. “When they walk there are looks that, no matter how much the model wants, do not go with them, you see that they do not feel handsome enough, they do not look on paper. They are professionals but no matter how hard they try to defend it, you can already see that there is something wrong with their own body”, he says. At that moment you know that it is better to look for an alternative. “When it goes more with them, with their personality, they feel very attractive and it is when they defend it very well, they are more motivated, something also vital”, he clarifies.

Models tend to be much thinner than you imagine”

Details count

There is previous work that helps models feel comfortable and happy to work with you, something that is later reflected on the catwalk. This is what Pérez believes, who is looking for shoes with the number of each one, so that they do not have to share them among themselves. “In this parade each one wears his shoe with his number. They appreciate it, you see that you know their feet and that you know them well, and that is always good”, he specifies.

The order of the looks

Normally the most prominent models open and close the show. So, before the fitting, an order of departure has already been established, which must also take into account the possible changes of clothes that each boy or girl will have during the parade –none, two or three-. Once the fitting is finished, it is time to determine the final order, knowing the adjustments that have been made and the priority that you want to give to each look or model. Factors such as height, corpulence or the looks themselves, among others, are decisive for everything to make sense.

The music and space of the parade

In addition to fitting, although at first you might think that music and space are not determining factors, for Ana Pérez they are. "For me it is very important, I make the looks already thinking about the music." And it is that "it is the common thread of the story," he adds. For her, a show tells a story that goes along with the costumes and the lights, as well as the collection that is presented. "With it you also mark the points of interest and where there is calmer and more cane, like the beginning or the final carousel," says the stylist. "But it is that even the music of the moment in which people sit down -sitting- is important to create atmosphere", he remarks.

As for space, a catwalk like 080 Barcelona Fashion that varies from place to place is a mystery until the last moment. While in the last edition the assembly, in general, did not have many positive comments, in this one it seems that things have changed. "It's a beautiful catwalk, it looks like a mansion worthy of an exclusive show in Paris, it reminds me of Givenchy or Lanvin," admits the stylist. “I like it, it's an old site with history –the Llotja de Mar in Barcelona-“, he concludes.